“THESE are girls I used to see at the end of the Eighties when we went from Le Palace to Les Bain Douche,” said Roland Mouret after his show in Paris this morning. “They were harder and sexier – they were sweatier in fact.”
Not the most charming description, but with those bodycon dresses of patch-worked stretch cotton, silk and PVC in mind, we knew what he meant. Conceived in a moment when he was on the beach in Greece and heard reggae music turn to techno, the idea for this collection came about because he just felt like it was time to reimagine the woman he is dressing – so he made her younger, more overtly sexy with strips of skin showing between bound midriffs, and even gave her flat shoes (pointed, ankle-wrapped), to really let her work her nightclub moves.
His signature bodycon draping was evident, so die-hard Mouret lovers need not worry, but the bright fuchsia and mint striped against a predominantly monochrome collection was a stark move from the more languid colour palette we’re used to from Mouret.
“I like contradictions. Today I shall contradict myself,” he said in his notes. “That is the one way I have of asserting my liberty.”
It was still recognisable and desirable – precisely tailored, expertly draped skirt suits and dresses of feathery lace featuring one bright pink panel were resolutely feminine, while a lighter mesh fabric made for draped dresses and airy coats that allowed a little more room to breathe. In general though, Mouret wants us up on a table to dance next summer away.
To shop more Roland Mouret visit: www.rolandmouret.com