The Calvin Klein show for spring/summer 2014 was held in the gargantuan Spring Studio complex downtown where tonight they’ll be throwing a party to celebrate Francisco Costa’s ten years as creative director of the house – as well as to fete the launch of its latest perfume which boasts Rooney Mara as its face.
Costa’s minimalist take has consistently been a defining aspect of his shows and this was no exception. The clothes stood away from the body: tanks and jackets in floating organza hung over oversized painter’s pants with deep deep cuffs. He is a master of the fold and, in the crevices of pleats there was a flash of coral – but only a flash because of course this is cK so off-white and black dominated.
Raw edges and fringing accompanied much of the tailoring – to keep the collection on trend, for so many New Yorkers have played out their edges this week – while the finale saw fringing turn to feathers on evening dresses. The transparent mood lingers, too: flesh was glimpsed through slashed fabrics and peeped from between layers.
Wonderful marbled snakeskin patchwork dresses displayed more of Costa’s mastery: he has always been deeply interested in fabrication and the unique cloths in this collection were one of its dominant features.
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