Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Simone Rocha presented her most polished collection yet. After last season’s dalliance with a darker, edgier side she returned to a sweeter, feminine flourish, but refined it. She took an Elizabethan silhouette with skirts exaggerated at the hips, cut them short and added belts crafted from plastic jewellery, the sort that looked like they might have come from those DIY boxed kits from Hamleys. They also trimmed shoulders and necklines.
Shapes felt buoyantly courtly, but not costume – hair and make-up helped to that end with punkish messy braids modernising proceedings. Standout renditions came in yellow python skin, and a high shine plasticised moss green lace. She took the trench coat and reworked it into cropped proportions, tightly belted and partnered with skirts with that same volume.
Girlish shapes aside, she turned her attention to trousers, too; ankle-skimming and boyish they erupted in ruffles at the pockets. Some of the best debuted in seersucker red tartan. Upping the luxe factor were streamlined coats in glossy black pony skin and fuzzy shearling but cut narrow to flatter.
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