LESS than a month before the grand reveal of Proenza Schouler’s spring/summer 2015 collection, rumours began that LVMH was in talks to acquire a stake in the New York-based brand. We still don’t have any answers to that fashion riddle yet, but based on the output for this collection one can only imagine that their appeal will intensify. And keep us talking at least until everyone lands back in London.
There was so much to like here: the shoes (fringed mules, thick strappy sandals, peep-toe go-go boots), the bags (long strapped affairs sloping off down a shoulder), the parka jackets (they’re not going away anywhere soon), their trademark layering of textures to clever and distinct effect – mixing leather, metal and viscose crochet with silk weaves. What you see is not often what you get with this pair, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, their complex fabrications requiring a double-take. And then another.
Off-white, black, dark green and flashes of persimmon were the predominant colours and it appeared faintly autumnal for a spring/summer collection – paper-thin leather trousers with oversize sporty jackets with perforated leather overlays and a generous sprinkling of python.