Everyone felt slightly jaded at Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy show – the last of the day at his usual grim location; Halle Freyssinet in a seedy part of Paris – were soon jolted back to life the second those migraine-inducing strip lights pinged on overhead. If that wasn’t enough, what came next was sensory overload – and one of Tisci’s best collections yet. There was so much going on – even in a single look – spectators (Rihanna and Kanye West included) had to pay attention for fear of missing something.
This was a collection that largely tapped into Tisci’s softer side, namely in those long-sleeved wafty silk shirtdresses. Zipped all the way up, they verged on demure in prints of python, blown-up butterfly wings, painterly watercolours and leopard, but this was a collection that also jarred and shook. There was something intriguing about the strictness of it all, not just in the rigorous shape of those sharp grey tailored trouser suits, but an overriding idea of pulling, supporting, tugging was felt throughout. From angular trims on knitted cardigans, to the face lift alternative, eye-lifting elastic bands that models had taped to temples, to the wide half-belts that were curiously positioned on the back of jackets horizontally across shoulder blades, reminiscent of Nineties Helmut Lang. Tisci sent out some complex mash-ups too where off-colour combinations also served to skew, like a drop-waisted spearmint-coloured lace pleated skirt with a beige and primrose sweater curiously knotted at the back like a bustle.
There was no expense spared on skins. Expect to see hefty price tags on those nougat and pale apricot-coloured furs and chocolate leather pleated skirts and dress coats with add-on fur shrugs. His legion of followers – model Kendall Jenner was the latest to join the line up this evening (Tisci already surrounds himself with a cool gang; Joan Smalls and Mariacarla Boscono as closest of friends) – will no doubt justify the expense somehow in order to get one on their back.
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