JACK MCCOLLOUGH and Lazaro Hernandez have for the past few seasons moved away from the print and colour upon which they had originally made their Proenza Schouler name – a move that served them well for an especially accomplished spring/summer 2014 offering – but tonight they brought it back for a collection that was energising, fun and fast-paced (even as we waited for the show to begin, the room was alight with orange fluorescent colour-distorting tubing).
Backstage, the boys – who celebrated a decade in fashion last year and are part of the Vogue Festival line-up for 2014 – spoke about the importance of humour, fun and not overthinking things. Essentially, all of those important character traits that come to fruition from experience – and later lead to confidence.
And this was a confident and slick collection – big on structure with jackets curving around the body and into peplums, large sloping shoulders above stiff A-line skirts or what fell into longer lengths of coat, trousers worn beneath.
Vivid glitter and monochrome safari prints that ran from frenetic zebra stripes to giraffe spots and sat atop spongy jacquards – it was hourglass-soft in silhouette, but anything but when it came to those zingy surfaces, which literally sprung from the garments, padded as they were.