ELIE SAAB’S model army walked to a military beat – the designer exchanged his signature fairytale romance for something darker, harder and tougher, “the way of the woods”, we were told.
So structure and gilded buttons were all key, as was a khaki dark colour palette on trailing capes and stand-up straight collars. There was lots of fur trim on coats made in mind for protecting you from whatever the forest may have on offer hiding among it.
But when it comes to Saab, a designer so synonymous with the red carpet he should have his own interview spot on it, it’s really the dresses we care about. How fancy, frou, magical and pretty are they?
In keeping with this dark forest tale, this time they were less whimsical and more severe – ball gowns with defined waists and utilitarian zips running down their back. A smattering of shimmer ran down the long sleeves of arms and grabbed at torsos. Green billowing gowns belonged to a woodland queen – of which this show had many: Lily Donaldson adding to her repertoire of catwalks this season and Karlie Kloss looking ever the wilderness glamazon.