PARIS Fashion Week might be winding down but the clothes on the catwalk just kept getting better. Three seasons in and Nicolas Ghesquiere is undoubtedly feeling more confident in his Louis Vuitton artistic director role – this a collection that continued to combine that clever blend of savvy, rock ‘n’ roll and retro that so belongs to his girl and bring with it a real sense of him, what he did back in his smash-hit Balenciaga days.
He and Hedi Slimane are both designers that very much cater to that certain breed of “cool girl” and while Slimane sticks to his guns of an “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” philosophy, Ghesquiere gave his girl a whole new wardrobe this season. It felt fresh, it felt exciting and there was a lot to love – mental shopping lists were being compiled here, starting with the vanity case bags that so suitably riffed on the luggage heritage of the house, and ending with the retro shaggy coats that had a wonderful passed-down feel about them, the light catching them in such a way that a yellow fleck had a lovely aged quality as though the pieces had once belonged to your very cool mum back in the day.
In between and it was about cute ribbed knits with peekaboo cut-out décolletage details, their edges gently curling up, one covered in diamante. There were the most perfect leather miniskirts that came with two-inch incisions slicing into them – it was about that level of detail, that all made it dreamy.
Chain belts dangled with silver medallions and the signature Damier Louis Vuitton check was transposed in fuzz on skirt and jacket looks to feel really special. Tailoring throughout was impeccable and that opening series of super shaggy jackets was all about a wonderful enveloping volume, a supersized nod to Margot Tenenbaum perhaps.
Still complete with Ghesquiere’s magic touch, it had moved on – more of him coming through to great and covetable effect.