“Did it look like I was having fun? It was supposed to!” Dries Van Noten laughed backstage after his show that took the colourwheel and span it with glee. Clashing teal with mustard, purple with hot pink, orange with gold, and so on (and so on), it was a positive riot of juxtapositions – and that’s before the fabrics even come into it. Raised jacquards, satin ruffles, embellished tweed checks and lashings of pleated, tiered and frilled tulle – it was the grown-up equivalent of raiding the dressing-up box, although under Noten’s watchful eye, the result looks really good.
“This season it was really about the flamboyant woman – she’s not just eccentric, because that can be old with 25 cats,” he continued backstage. “She wants to live, she wants to show herself, she wants to enjoy life. She knows how to mix things and she dares to.”
A master of mixing things up himself, this show saw one of Noten’s personal passions realised: to have a live orchestra play the score to his show – a familiar yet distorted melody with a punchy baseline.
“The string quartet is something that I l have loved for over 15 years. It was the perfect time to have it at this collection as it was a collection of lots of things you know but it’s a very different way of thinking about them,” he explained, summing up exactly what we always look for – and always love – in a Noten show.