Marni lightened and brightened up the morning for a collection that was laden with Lego colour and eveningwear elegance when it came to layering that twisted and tucked, pinched and folded into place.
It was sportier, and felt like a fresh burst of energy from Consuelo Castiglioni – white, daffodil yellow and the richest of jewel green to incarnate a wardrobe full of wide-leg trousers (a continuation from last season), split tunics and layered dresses and tabard styles. Just as we’ve come to expect and love from the brand, you never quite know where one garment begins and the other ends – here it was a game of dress up with long sleeves splaying out over fingers, sequins jangling beneath asymmetric hems and leaf prints that danced on shoulders in yet more sequins before making a bold impact as print in yellow and green across a mid-length dress. Sculpted graphics did the same and echoed the installation surrounds of the catwalk. That favourite T-shirt-beneath-dress combination factored in a lot here – but upgraded by Marni’s signature complication.
But it’s never just the clothes to contemplate with Marni – you’re looking at those accessories just as much, because they are key in defining and describing the Marni woman. They are so often the dot on the “i” and the cross on the “t”, as it were. Those same leaves hung from lobes in gold, wrists were weighted down by angular bangles and bags were long, width-wise, in metallic and scrunched like a sandwich bag or came as luxe shoppers. And the way to wear your hair is in minimalist bunchies.