The Peter Pilotto boys were responsible for plenty of cooing from the Brewer Street car park after people had battled through the relentless London rain to find next summer waiting for them in all its smocked, sporty glory.
The silhouettes weren’t new from the duo – we saw those pencil lengths, swinging skirts, and bold bandage-like straps work to great success last season – but this time they have given everything they have got in terms of fabrication, and it’s a case of more is more. Layers of Chantilly lace – so delicate they looked like they might melt away – travelled from top to bottom and came tiered in skirts that danced around the models’ thighs; its macramé counterpart was patchworked with satin seersucker in asymmetric skirts and kick-flare culottes, while the most beautiful smocked-cotton knits were woven into long close-fitting dresses that were so very flattering from front to back.
Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos have a very special talent at taking the sweet and giving it just the right amount of structure and edge to ensure it feels modern – and it’s that which gives it its distinctive DNA. The crayon-coloured zips, crisp whites, bold straps and elasticated dropped sleeves lent an athletic accent, contrasting the ethereal feel and palette of sky-blue and lemon perfectly.
Triumph comes when women really want to wear a collection and this pretty yet practical outing is another lesson in how to make sure that happens.