Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Jonathan Saunders

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The pop architect Robert Venturi once said, “Less is a bore,” and Jonathan Saunders’s latest collection was a no-holds barred homage to living an amplified life in optimistic technicolor.

Saunders has recently secured investment in his brand, and although most of this collection must have been designed before the cash injection had landed, this was a case of art imitating life; if “life” is sweet and “art” is unfettered joy, that is.

His latest was a complete departure from his last collection. The spring/summer 2015 offering was introspective, conceptual even, and yes, Saunders could be critiqued for inconsistency from one season to the next, but he isn’t interested in repetition and his true talent lies within his ability to shape-shift. Saunders is a generous designer. His collections are offered up with an open vulnerability. If his designs had a catch phrase it would be, “Take me as you find me”, and as such this collection was unmistakably him.

There was that trademark, tense duality between the formalist and the fetishist; the dresses with bracelet sleeves and high-funnel necklines had a prim restraint which was twisted with lace-up, over-the-knee kinky boots. Colour wise this was an ode to outré. The op-art prints were varied and clashing, riffing on a modish Sixties swish. Saunders had been inspired by the artists which he referenced at the beginning of his career: the pop art of Allen Jones and Bridget Reily.

The sound track to the show was George Michael’s Careless Whisper. “I love that song, it makes me happy,” he said backstage. “I went back to thinking about why we do what we do, why I design, and look at my face,” he said, backstage. “I’m happy, that’s what this collection is about. Optimism.”

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Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Hugo Boss

Polished, industrial, sharp and serious – one can’t help but think that ever since Jason Wu took on the helm of Hugo Boss this time last year that the aesthetic has filtered out onto his own eponymous line. As we saw at the start of the week, his namesake label was less full of the flounce and frou that it once was. And Boss is about a certain precision, a heritage luxury brand. That said, among the silhouettes today there was a renewed softness – rounder shoulders, a play on proportion and panels for lithe dresses and leg-of-mutton sleeves.

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Paris Fashion Week

During Paris Fashion Week I was invited back by Joseph to help the wholesale team in their showroom. The position that I have is ultimately acting as the link between the buyers, the wholesale team, the dressers and the models. It means that I have to be extremely organised, understand the collection inside-out and back-to-front and work every minute of the day running around making sure that I am available to everyone everywhere.

Exhausting but I loved it.

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The pre-AW15 collection sees the Joseph woman borrowing from every corner of her boyfriend’s wardrobe. She covets his oversized, heirloom knitwear and masculine tailored looks that evoke the cut and elegance of his old Etonian uniform (but they always fit her a size too big). Her tomboy attitude and slouch breathe a new lease of life into British menswear classics.

There is a sense of ease to the collection. Layers are built on layers, secured with various ties and wraps. It’s a play on proportion, volume, and longevity, focusing on the idea that luxury clothes, especially borrowed ones, get better with age. The fabrics, too are noble and traditional; glove leather, cashmere, lambswools, and felt textures; military felt, corduroy and flannel blend on the body with ease.

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Lucky for me I was able to have the weekend off from all of the chaos and manic running around as my friend Grace was coming to visit me. She really couldn’t have picked a better weekend to come, with the sun shining beautifully everyday and celebrities here there and everywhere from all the fashion excitement we were two tourists running around Paris trying to make the most of everything.

I of course took here on my little tour of the city bumping into all sorts of fashionistas such as Bryan Boy wearing knee high golden Chanel sandles and We Wore Whats Danielle Bernstein looking as glamorous as ever. We stopped at all my favourite cafes along the way such as the beautiful Cafe Carette and the delicious Angelinas as well as eating at all the best places. L’Avenue on Saturday was particularly exciting as Kim Kardashian was munching away at the same time as we were!

The most perfect and beautiful weekend during Paris Fashion Week.

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