For those of you who don’t know: JOSEPH modernised women. As the sixties drew to a close, Casablanca-born hairdresser Joseph Ettedgui looked out from his salon, a chic King’s Road focal point, and imagined a revolution in the way we buy fashion. With his keen instincts, Joseph created a boutique that was more magazine than clothes shop – somewhere to discover new ideas, new styles and new designers.
Joseph brought Kenzo and Castelbajac to the world’s attention, then as his influence grew he championed Azzedine Alaia and Yohji Yamamoto, chose Norman Foster to design a store, and was the first in London to sell Prada. Even after his own eponymous label was launched to acclaim, Joseph continued to showcase the designers he had discovered and nurtured.
Just as its original stores were places to meet and share ideas, attracting designers, models, editors and photographers, JOSEPH is once again a focus for creativity, somewhere to find inspiration.
At the same time the JOSEPH collection has entered a new phase, drawing renewed strength from the energy around it. Under the creative direction of Louise Trotter, Joseph presents a high contemporary ready-to-wear collection with a strong core of luxury essentials.
On my first day of interning there is always the worry of what on earth do I wear?! For my first day I decided it was better to be over dressed then underdressed seeing as I really had no idea what I was going to be doing. I chose J-brand black trousers, a cute and smart silk top from Whistles and little heel boots from Top-shop. Easy.
The showroom transformed from this:
My role was Showroom Assistant / Wholesale assistant. In this position I was:
Merchandising and remerchandising the new season collections and essentials
Assisting sellers and buys around the showroom
Front of house showroom assistant: meeting clients, keeping rails in order of looks and collections and maintaining the high standards of the showroom by keeping everything neat and tidy.
Dressing models and maintaining the process and consistency of having each of the looks shown to clients in the correct format.
Of course the clothes and looks were absolutely beautiful. Everything I loved and wish I had. Working with Joseph was truly an amazing experience and has taught me so much more about the way that wholesale and buyers work within the fashion industry as well as an insight into Paris Fashion Week.
HEDI SLIMANE can certainly draw a crowd. His stellar front row this evening was peppered with a host of musicians – Lenny Kravitz, Lou Doillon, Miles Kane, and Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem Christo of Daft Punk, Peter Doherty and Carl Barat of The Libertines, in addition to former Yves Saint Laurent muses, Catherine Deneuve and Betty Catroux.
His little black book that serves as the show invitation featured a catalogue of works by Robert Heinecken, the American artist best known for his appropriation of imagery – sometimes pornographic – from magazines and packaging. It’s an area that clearly interests Slimane, remember, last autumn/winter, it was John Baldessari another artist of the same ilk whose images featured on these pages.
There is something of that in Slimane – ok, less of the pornographic, perhaps (but there is no denying his girl has edge) – but the designer certainly has a knack of taking all the good bits of what’s gone before and re-proposing them as new ideas for now.
There were 55 looks here, and every one will be poured over by his coterie of fans. From the opening cherry printed one-shouldered fluttery dress – not entirely romantic when teamed with ‘cheap’ 10-denier tights – to the black leather coat, micro tan suede jacket with popper fastening (and a host of other cropped leather jackets, all updates to his hit fringed numbers that sold like hot cakes – despite the price tag circling a figure of £2500) to the camo army jackets, pinstripe blazers, denim hot pants and star print mini dresses. Girls – and women – will want it all. No, there wasn’t anything that we hadn’t ever seen before but it didn’t matter, because it all felt terrifically right again – yes, even those cheap tights – and isn’t it that that matters?
To shop more visit www.ysl.com or click below to shop Spring/Summer 2015 Saint Laruent collection:
Not only did Julianne Moore bring home an award for Best Actress last night at the Critics’ Choice Awards, she was also best dressed in black lace. Wearing a Saint Laurent gown, Moore managed to look both sexy and demure—the same went for Michelle Monaghan, who presented an award in a sleeveless, lacy Elie Saab ensemble.
Black lace is a risky statement that can go wrong oh-so-easily (the look can feel more Grammys than Oscars, if you get the gist), but Moore and Monaghan gave a new, elegant life to the fabrication. The trick? A high neck paired with some discreet décolletage.
Such is the excitement surrounding a Prada fashion show that spectators can’t help but make assumptions as soon as the invitation lands. Let’s see, a beige linen card coated in plastic. Not much to conclude from that. The next clue: the venue. This evening, Mrs. Prada’s space on Via Fogazzaro was decked out in rust-coloured deep pile carpet, while the centre of the room was filled with peaked dunes of lavender sand, tons of the stuff, sparkling under the spotlights – it filled the air with a sweet perfume and looked like it would zing on the tongue like sherbet, should one wish to try it.
These thoughts, and others, were racing through the mind until 42 minutes later when the wait was finally over. Out came Gemma Ward (after a six-year hiatus from the industry) dressed in a narrowly cut double-breasted black coat with Seventies collar and contrast lines of basic running stitch outlining the seams. The idea of craftsmanship here was prevalent. Edges on everything were left to fray, jagged hemlines on sheer toile-like skirts appeared as though they had been hacked off backstage, minutes before exiting. It all communicated an element of ownership, of wear and tear.
Her choice of vintage-style fabrics were opulent and seemed more suited to upholstering than dressmaking; heavy damasks, rich flocking and brocades – which were especially made for this collection (Mrs. Prada keen to do her part to keep the tradition and skill alive) – were all the sort of materials more commonly used for curtains or to renew a sofa. Here, they were cut up and mixed and matched together, or used as trims – off-cuts if you like – spliced into leather A-line skirts. Chinoiserie even got a look – in via oriental silk shirts layered under mustard ribbed knitted vests.
The soundtrack was Kiss Me, borrowed from The Ballad of Genesis and Lady Jaye, a film by Marie Losier that centres on the life and work of Genesis Breyer P-Orridge and his wife and collaborator Lady Jaye, it follows the sexual transformations they underwent during their Pandrogyne project, merging into one being. It was a provocative and powerful choice. Was Mrs. Prada merging the two worlds of the past and the future? The old with the new? It doesn’t really matter, these clothes were so spine-tingling good – and the accessories, too; clog boots and sublime bowling bags crafted from black crocodile with tan leather accents – she would be hard pushed to have found a record that didn’t set it all off with such emotional intensity.
To shop more Spring/Summer 2015 Prada visit: www.prada.com or if you love the shoes just as much as I do, click below now to shop the collection: