Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Marchesa

It’s always at this time of year that fashion week and the award ceremonies happen almost at the same time – the fashion shows provide a parade of possible outfit options for nominees. Of course, this is something that applies to some labels more than others – Oscar de la Renta is a prime target for this, an Marchesa too. This season the label took inspiration from “billowing” bonfires in the Scottish highlands – which made for an array of intense golden, sienna and burnt orange tones for feathers and beads on gowns that flustered into shape.

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Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Emilio Pucci

PETER DUNDAS is five years in at Pucci and has succeeded in making his show ticket one of the hottest of the Milan season – a chance for us all to daydream a little that we could live a Pucci life: that of glowing, toned skin and lithe limbs that need nothing more than a swathe of Pucci beaded jersey to see us through. Those preferring to wear underwear of an evening need not apply.

Entitled Call of the Wild, had all the signature Pucci elements – mini dresses densely beaded with the house print in gold; matching heels that laced up the side; second-skin leather trousers with the same raunchy leather side stitching; bulging dyed furs and beautiful silky jersey dresses which, particularly on Joan Smalls in a rich brown to perfectly complement her skin tone, was just as desirable as Pucci can be.


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Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Thakoon


PEARLS, lace and prettiness had underpinned Thakoon Panichgul’s spring/summer 2014 collection, but this time round he swapped that for verve and vivid brights – there’s nothing like a bit of colour to brighten a winter mood, after all, and it’s something we’ve frankly come to rely on Thakoon for.

The designer had looked to the painterly landscapes of Patagonia for inspiration and brought back its colour palette – fuchsia and cobalt, orange and grass green – in the shape of capelets and sweater wraps (an emphasis on wrapping up the shoulders already something we’re seeing a lot of at the New York shows), floral-printed puffa jackets and collaged, asymmetrical-hemmed skirts and dresses.

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Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Moschino

THERE are certain designers who are simply destined for certain fashion houses. So it was no real surprise when, following Rossella Jardini’s departure at the house of Moschino, American designer Jeremy Scott was asked to step up to the challenge last October.

This is a designer known for his loud and proud attitude to fashion. He’s about fun, making a statement and irreverence – and that’s before we’ve even got to the clothes. And Moschino is about tongue-in-cheek riffs, caricature style. Which meant as first date fodder goes this was surely going to go pretty well.

Scott plundered pop culture and the world of fast food to reincarnate that Moschino wit, albeit a little more literally than we’ve seen of late. This wasn’t a collection about nods here and there, it was a collection about transforming a model into SpongeBob SquarePants, or a server at McDonald’s (in the chicest uniform you’ve ever seen, of course), a packet of biscuits or a Hershey’s chocolate bar. Who knew they could turn so well into a ballgown or two?

He served up (very literally on a tray) quilted bags in fast food chain shades and worked the McDonald’s “M” into the Moschino heart. It was a love-in of fast food and fast fashion – which is exactly what inspired Scott. And so much so that 10 select items from the catwalk have gone on sale today at London’s Browns store.

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