TWO years ago, Alber Elbaz celebrated his 10th anniversary at Lanvin (complete with karaoke from the designer himself no less), but tonight he was celebrating 125 years of the brand.
That’s a – cause for celebration, and b – cause for enlisting some of your favourite fashion friends to take to the catwalk for you – with Amber Valetta (all hair slicked back and in a slinky black column dress) among the model line-up. Edie Campbell later followed with a mop head of blonde ruffled hair, all louche and cool in a slouchy tuxedo.
And while there was no cake or karaoke from Alber this time (although there was a little dance – well, wiggle – from him at the end) what there was, was a breadth of clothes for a breadth of women to show just why and how Elbaz is a much adored designer at the house of Lanvin.
It began with sleek Grecian dresses, slit at the thigh, in navy, black and white, substantial jewellery clamped around the neck and a bag appearing with every look. These – elegant and gently draped numbers – seemed like a due and appropriate nod to Jeanne herself. We then moved on to Alber’s own repertoire – super sophisticated tailoring for today’s woman but with his rough edges and open seams for design distinction, followed by what we know and love him best for – party dresses.
They were less cocktail and punchy than we know from him (we’ve seen these in bright jewel shades), but you can’t help but think this was the designer stepping aside slightly in honour of the house. There all the same, they were molten and metallic and had his signature sumptuous luxe about them: lace, pearls, all together. Next it was on to a series of wafty and light printed tunic dresses, a modern and short bohemian riff on the Lanvin robe de style perhaps. They came in vivid yellow and red.
The take away from this collection was Elbaz’s ability to design and cater for a multitude of women – just as his model line-up proved. And that’s the key to Lanvin’s success right now.
To shop the glamorous world of Spring/Sumer 2015 Lanvin click below:
THAT Seventies Show – is fast becoming the way to sum up Milan Fashion Week, from Gucci to Prada and onto Emilio Pucci.
“It’s always resonated with me. I think it’s a reaction,” said Pucci creative director Peter Dundas backstage by way of explanation. “I really wanted to do it last time so just thought I’m just going to do it.” Fair enough.
Whether the fashion forces of Milan got together to conspire in favour of the era or not, it’s on next summer’s agenda for sure – but it just depends on what kind of Seventies spirit you are.
“It’s my girls,” said Dundas, referring to Poppy Delevingne who was bejewelled and Pucci-fied out front. What he meant was that bohemian and carefree spirit – but situated in a contemporary context.
And this was very much a happy-hippy collection: plunge-neck crochet dresses embroidered with flowers, be-tasselled ponchos of the same effect, wispy butterfly-billowing maxi dresses, psychedelic shades and prints of Zap ice lolly optics, waistcoats, skinny suits, flares – tick, tick, tick for the Seventies. There were even those orange and brown colour clashes.
Halter necks, empire lines, gypsy tops and gilets – the repertoire continued as a mash-up of Fleetwood Mac played out – and then Naomi Campbell took a turn on the catwalk.
With all its colour and exotic psychedelic prints, Pucci is a brand that sits well in the Seventies – and will do in the second wave of the Noughties with so many trend boxes ticked this season.
Click below and shop the vibrant collection of Spring/Summer 2015 Emilio Pucci:
THE first show season since Temperley London combined its mainline and ALICE offerings and things are looking strong. That was a good idea – and you could see the balance between the two working all the better for now working as one. It felt fresh, young, clean, tight, modern.
“It was great to focus solely on an amazing show collection with more daywear, core pieces and loads of very versatile separates,” explained Temperley pre-show, singling out again “versatile” and “sexy” as key buzzwords.
“I was inspired by colour and print from very naughty Japanese paintings, woodblock prints, surreal sea creatures and lots of mixing of layers and kimono references with our looks both for day and evening,” she went on. And all of this was entirely evident. Cropped trench jackets, breezy skirts worn over trousers but whose effect was only really felt wafting away as it did at the back, gingham and plaid, pink and black stripes, dense embroideries, stiff A-line silhouettes.
Slouchy-boxy tailoring was given the Temperley edge with lace accents and despite all of these references and layers, it never felt heavy.
“The Temperley girl is more relaxed with a very sexy attitude,” the designer pointed out.
The mood suits her well.
Click below to shop Spring/Summer 2015 Temperley London looks: