Spring/Summer 2016 Burberry Prorsum

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It was the usual fanfare at the Burberry Prorsum show in Hyde Park: there were stressed ushers in day-glo jackets directing traffic with military precision, headset-wearing security at every check point, and suited staff guiding show goers to velvet upholstered seats. Even, the same familiar front row: Burberry girls, Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne, Suki Waterhouse, and Jourdan Dunn, in addition to Sienna Miller, Paloma Faith, and Benedict Cumberbatch. But this season was quite unlike any other, because to see Burberry’s spring/summer 2016 show, you didn’t actually need an invitation. You just needed Snapchat. The collection, pretty much in its entirety, was unveiled on the app.

Trust Burberry to come up with a first. And another: Sephora streamed the first ever live runway beauty tutorial on YouTube. No one can say Burberry is behind on the digital up.

Nor an emerging artist. Previous entertainment has included Jake Bugg, James Bay and Tom Odell, but today saw a volte-face on that front with 54-year old singer-songwriter Alison Moyet performing live, accompanied by a 32-piece orchestra. She belted out familiar hits, All Cried Out, Only You, and Whispering Your Name and given the way Christopher Bailey boyishly ran out to hug her at the end, the chief creative and chief executive officer is clearly a fan.

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But first things first: that nylon floppy backpack. Remember the wait-list frenzy that ensued over those personalised blanket ponchos a couple of seasons ago? Watch it happen again over these gabardine-constructed nylon backpacks. Embroidered with model’s initials with tan leather buckles they debuted in versions of black and khaki, and served to neatly sum up the younger, carefree spirit of this collection, titled FUNCTIONREGALIA, which was one of Bailey’s most on-the-pulse outings in recent seasons.

This is what modern urbanites will want to wear come spring: one of those slippery oyster silk slip dresses, suspended by spaghetti straps that skimmed the floor, with a languid trench coat nonchalantly thrown over. That look will take her almost anywhere, anytime – and even into autumn with the addition of a sweater. There was big emphasis on coats – yes – even for summer – after all, it’s always winter somewhere in the world; here you’ll find lace trenches spliced with sporty mesh, the perfect black pea coat, duffle coat, officer jacket with frogging and regimental buttons, and leather biker, finished with gold cording trim.

Don’t forget: selected outerwear and bags from this collection can be purchased and personalised until October 5. Best make that call now then.

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The Best Of London Fashion Week

As London Fashion Week draws to a close, designers are wending their way home from Samantha Cameron’s party to sleep for the first time in days, and editors are thinking about what they’ll be remembering from a sightseeing tour of the city that took them all over the map. In general: Despite traffic and lashings of London rain, it was a week of individualism, British humor, prettiness, and emotional surprises.

1. BURBERRY PRORSUM

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Pop concerts in Hyde Park are always part of London’s summer life. This time Christopher Bailey put music center stage in his own tent in the park, hosting a mini gig by Alison Moyet as his girls circled the orchestra pit in silk slip dresses, military jackets, and monogrammed backpacks. All tied back to Burberry’s first-of-its-kind branded music channel on Apple’s new streaming music service.

Watch the Burberry 2016 show below.

2. ERDEM

3. J.W.ANDERSON

Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Burberry Prorsum

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Singer Clare Maguire once again took to the Burberry Prorsum catwalk – as did the second chapter of Christopher Bailey’s tale of studious and exotic bohemia, the first half of which we also saw at the menswear shows.

So it was a continuation of pattern, patchwork and print (that was also, in fact, the title of the collection) and all the pieces and ideas that during the boys’ show we’d wanted to see turned into pieces we could more easily wear: heavily fringed ponchos (that seemed even to take precedence over the trench this season); mosaic-encrusted crop tops on whimsical folk dresses; gorgeous leg-lengthening suede patchwork boots (which were impossible to know where they might end); multi-fringed trench coats (entirely dripping in tan strands); little natty waistcoats atop the aforementioned vintage-y dresses; and quilted floral jackets, and of course more trenches in any and all of the combinations above. There really was one for every taste.

Colours were deeper and darker, heartfelt and romantic: teal, maroon, olive and a darkened magenta. Pom-poms nestled at wrists worn as bracelets and ankle boots boasted bursts of fringing at their heel. Empire lines ruled, quilting brought a crafty touch and there was leopard print to be found too.

This was a free and liberated collection that shifted itself into the Sixties and the Summer of Love more than anything else, and so these were Burberry’s flower children.

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Spring/Summer 2015 Burberry Prorsum

 

CHRISTOPHER BAILEY loves to riff on a topper. In previous seasons he’s reimagined the biker, the aviation jacket, the gritty parka, the trench – of course – and this season, he turned his hand to the indigo denim jacket, that forever young wardrobe staple that’s imbued with good times and optimism.

Serenaded with a live performance by James Bay, Malaika Firth opened the show (fellow Burberry girls, Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne sat front row, alongside Mario Testino) in a fitted wasp-waisted jean jacket with white sheepskin erupting out from under its little peplum.

Varying versions were in never-ending supply. Some were lined in sprouting white ostrich feathers, others were fiercely cropped, another was clad in dusty pink mink, or rendered in grass green suede with a glossy plastic collar and breast pockets. You’ll be spoilt for choice. It wasn’t only those jackets that conveyed a young-at-heart appeal, every luxury house seemingly has a hit sneaker right now and Christopher Bailey debuted Burberry’s all-white style, the “field” sneaker with a bright striped foamy sole.

Under those jackets were tulle dresses as light as candy floss that were whipped around bodies in sensual swathes of bandaged twists or pleats.

The British countryside comes alive in spring and there were nods to that feeling, which arrive with the first signs of summer, rooted in this collection. From those fluffy soft lambswool accents, to that particular shade of grass green, to the oversized butterfly prints and enlarged and abstracted bumble bee motifs and slogans that screamed “insects,” “flower,” and “sun” plastered over trench coats and printed dresses, and yes, all further enhanced by Bay’s The Clocks Go Forward, and the sunlight streaming through the Burberry tent in Hyde Park – as though right on cue.

To shop more Spring/Summer 2015 Burberry Prorsum click below: