Autumn Trench Coat

This week there really is only one item that our attention turns to – the trenchcoat. Synonymous with wet weather dressing and looking especially chic on Audrey Hepburn in her Breakfast at Tiffany’s days, it hails from the 19th Century originally as a military style, which later became incarnated as a day-to-day version following World War One.

It’s since become the staple of a smart working wardrobe but has particular pertinence this week as the forecast is especially gloomy – the rain just keeps on coming and getting dressed and remaining vaguely put together becomes harder and harder.

So step forward the trenchcoat.

A classic, it really is its own wonder garment – it almost doesn’t matter what you have on underneath because the trench does all the talking and makes that first great impression. Flat brogues keep it youthful and plays up to its tomboy charms while boots that climb the length of the leg have sass appeal. Wellingtoon boots, even, will work. And that’s it, the outfit is essentially complete. Can it really be that easy?

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It can – but then where is the fun in that? The autumn/winter 2015 catwalks made us rethink what we thought of the humble trench: it was spliced up and cut short at 3.1 Phillip Lim, transformed into a ballgown hybrid at Dries Van Noten and rendered in a poetic paisley at Burberry – for whom the trench really is its calling card.

Essentially, when it comes to wearing it this week, it is all about belting it and keeping the rain out. You’ll need a serious and substantial umbrella to go with it – not one that will blow inside out when the wind gets a bit too enthusiastic – and we suggest wearing in those autumn boots you should be buying just about now with it too.

When there are those odd moments to wear it undone or tied artistically so as to make a splaying blouse construction at the top, a pleated skirt just peeking out from the trench hem below will look seasonally studious. Lengths can be tricky but stick to this styling trick and you will be fine. And remember you still want to let the trench be the focus. Even when Lim and Van Noten contorted it into their hybrids you knew it was a trench beneath it all.

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Return Of The Trench

I know what you’re thinking… since when has this not been the case? Aren’t trench coats always on-trend, especially now, in January, just as we have spring in our sights and want to invest in outerwear that will serve us well into the warmer months?

Trench coats never really go out of fashion and, for the most part it has remained true to its heritage in classic camel-coloured gabardine but, this season, they’ve been given a renewed lease of life.

THE LAMINATED TRENCH

The street-style crowd has already embraced the vinyl trench, for obvious reasons: It’s an easy, sleek way to make a powerful statement. To make it work it real life, don’t wear anything too crazy underneath — the coat should draw the bulk of the attention.




Spring/Summer 2016 Burberry Prorsum

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It was the usual fanfare at the Burberry Prorsum show in Hyde Park: there were stressed ushers in day-glo jackets directing traffic with military precision, headset-wearing security at every check point, and suited staff guiding show goers to velvet upholstered seats. Even, the same familiar front row: Burberry girls, Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne, Suki Waterhouse, and Jourdan Dunn, in addition to Sienna Miller, Paloma Faith, and Benedict Cumberbatch. But this season was quite unlike any other, because to see Burberry’s spring/summer 2016 show, you didn’t actually need an invitation. You just needed Snapchat. The collection, pretty much in its entirety, was unveiled on the app.

Trust Burberry to come up with a first. And another: Sephora streamed the first ever live runway beauty tutorial on YouTube. No one can say Burberry is behind on the digital up.

Nor an emerging artist. Previous entertainment has included Jake Bugg, James Bay and Tom Odell, but today saw a volte-face on that front with 54-year old singer-songwriter Alison Moyet performing live, accompanied by a 32-piece orchestra. She belted out familiar hits, All Cried Out, Only You, and Whispering Your Name and given the way Christopher Bailey boyishly ran out to hug her at the end, the chief creative and chief executive officer is clearly a fan.

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But first things first: that nylon floppy backpack. Remember the wait-list frenzy that ensued over those personalised blanket ponchos a couple of seasons ago? Watch it happen again over these gabardine-constructed nylon backpacks. Embroidered with model’s initials with tan leather buckles they debuted in versions of black and khaki, and served to neatly sum up the younger, carefree spirit of this collection, titled FUNCTIONREGALIA, which was one of Bailey’s most on-the-pulse outings in recent seasons.

This is what modern urbanites will want to wear come spring: one of those slippery oyster silk slip dresses, suspended by spaghetti straps that skimmed the floor, with a languid trench coat nonchalantly thrown over. That look will take her almost anywhere, anytime – and even into autumn with the addition of a sweater. There was big emphasis on coats – yes – even for summer – after all, it’s always winter somewhere in the world; here you’ll find lace trenches spliced with sporty mesh, the perfect black pea coat, duffle coat, officer jacket with frogging and regimental buttons, and leather biker, finished with gold cording trim.

Don’t forget: selected outerwear and bags from this collection can be purchased and personalised until October 5. Best make that call now then.

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