All hail the rainbow warriors. Just when it seemed that Peter Pilotto had gotten into a bit of a rut, Christopher De Vos and Peter Pilotto pulled one of their occasional aesthetic reboots, vastly simplifying their shapes and trying a new approach to embellishment. Psych rock and the Summer of Love served as the duo’s starting point this time out, references easily legible in the collection’s array of A-line minidresses and bold resin embroideries, which came in shapes and colors familiar to anyone acquainted with acid-trip art.
The clothes weren’t deep, but they were a great deal of fun. And superficiality was, in a way, the point: The straightforward silhouettes here served as a canvas for surface play, whether nacreous material heat-pressed in flower or tile formation onto organza, or plastic thread woven into a kind of lace, then topped with additional decoration – doodle-like designs on black.
Really, the collection was all punch, and it had a youthful flair that had been missing from the Pilotto oeuvre of late. There were some lady-ish looks in the mix, too—the show-closing look, of brightly colored fabric draped to create some of those acid-trip shapes, could work on a woman of just about any age.