Top Campaigns of A/W 2015-16

Fashion has hit refresh and cast a number of new faces in many of its most impacting advertising campaigns for Autumn/Winter 2015. This time last year, Edie Campbell appeared in three of the top five campaigns but this season, it was a proliferation of under-the-radar models that fronted some of best campaigns. In contrast, the traditional practice of casting high-wattage celebrities and supermodels read as a tired formula that failed to break through the clutter.

What’s more, for those fashion houses that cast lesser-known models, it was their brands — not the faces that represent them — that truly took centre stage. This is especially significant as the industry finds itself in a period of significant flux. In recent months, we have seen the first moves in the wholesale reinvention of Gucci, while the once mighty commercial powerhouse Prada has experienced a dip in sales and profitability. At LVMH, Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton both continue to revamp their creative strategies to reenergise their brands and product offerings. The best of this season’s campaigns offered thoughtful and thought-provoking lenses through which to see these brands in evolution.

1. Gucci

Starring Antonia Wilson, Emmy Rappe, Lia Pavlova, Roos Abels, Sven de Vries, Tessa Bruinsma, Tobias Lundh, by Glen Luchford

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2. Alexander McQueen 

Starring Ruth Bell, Julia van Os, Jamilla Hoogenboom by David Sims

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3. Marc Jacobs 

 Starring Winona Ryder, Julia Nobis, Cher, Aamito Lagum, Cierra Skye, Grace Simmons, Hanne Gaby Odiele, Issa Lish, Molly Blair, Riley Montana, Sally Jonsson, Varya Shutova, Anthony Kiedis, Willow Smith, Debir Mazar, Steve Mackey, Marley Mackey, Sofia Coppola by David Sims

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4. Céline 

 Starring Karly Loyce, Marland Backus, Agnes Nieske, Lisa Helen Kramer, Frederikke Sofie, Irina Djuranovic by Juergen Teller

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5. J W Anderson 

 Unknown, by Jamie Hawkesworth

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6. Prada

Starring Avery Blanchard, Estella Boersma, Inga Dezhina, Lineisy Montero, Ine Neefs, Greta Varlese, Maartje Verhoef by Steven Meisel

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7. Bottega Veneta

Starring Anna Cleveland, Freddy Drabble by Juergen Teller

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8. Loewe

Starring Marc André Turgeon by Steven Meisel

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9. Miu Miu

Starring Hailey Gates, Mia Goth, Stacy Martin, Maddison Brown by Steven Meisel

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10. Louis Vuitton

Starring Rianne van Rompaey, Angel Rutledge, Fernanda Ly, Liya Kebede, Julia Merkelbach, Freja Beha Erichsen, Jennifer Connelly, Alicia Vikander by Bruce Weber,  Juergen Teller

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Whats your favorite campaign this season? Comment below and let me know…


Spring/Summer 2015 Whistles

WHAT better way to cement your reputation as the working woman’s go-to brand than to stage your spring/summer 2015 fashion show in an entrance tunnel to Kings Cross tube station? The novel idea came from Whistles, who in doing so cleverly took their customer off the catwalk and put her into context: on-the-go and always looking good. The tight edit of sleeveless jumpsuits, cutout dresses, tactile knits and statement jackets in a limited colour palette of white, black, peach and the palest of blue all emanated the brand’s progressive-but-pared-back mix and will no doubt fly off the shelves when they hit the shop floor next year. A very stylish commute beckons.

 

 


Spring/Summer 2015 Pringle of Scotland

Massimo Nicosia wanted to incorporate plenty of Pringle of Scotland’s almost 200-year history into his Spring ’15 collection. He did it in a very contemporary, perhaps even futuristic way, continuing his experiments in 3-D printing, a technique he first employed (to much acclaim) for Fall. This time around, Nicosia created a nylon-powder chain mail. Assembled with panels of woven cotton and silk, it was used for airy, funky tops and a dress. “I wanted to combine the artificial and the natural,” Nicosia said of the 3-D printed looks. However, the high-tech textile wasn’t the designer’s only forward-thinking interpretation of Pringle’s signature knitwear. 

Leather embellishments on a diaphanous white dress mimicked a cardigan stitch—the tactile effect was slick, and it made more than a few of the audience to do a double take during its trip down the runway. Similarly, traditional pullovers were completely reimagined; in one instance, loosely woven threads were trapped inside a mesh casing. In another, fil coupe fragments in watery hues of green and violet were patched onto a roomy organdy jumper.

Water was a primary point of reference for Nicosia this season. Using Ophelia by Sir John Everett Millais and Pablo Picasso’s The Bathers as inspiration, he attempted to translate its lightness, transparency, and reflective properties into fabric. This resulted in a number of sheer silk tops with woven collars and sleeves. A few of them were covered in translucent turquoise triangles that protruded from the chest—they were meant to act as prisms. Elsewhere, silver beads were used sparingly on a honeycomb knit dress to provide just a hint of shimmer. That piece stood out for its serene simplicity.

Returning to Pringle’s heritage, Nicosia played with the idea of lingerie (the house manufactured undergarments back in the day), and turned out hyper-thin silk knit tanks and bodysuits. Pleated and leather-trimmed skirts felt a little stiff and lacked the liquidity of Nicosia’s refreshing dresses and tops, but on the whole, the designer produced an innovative—and versatile—Spring lineup that will appeal to loyal Pringle customers and beyond.

Shop the beautiful and elegant artwork of Pringle of Scotland Spring/Summer 2015 below:
 

 

 

 


Spring/Summer 2015 Marc Jacobs

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A BUBBLE GUM pink suburban house sits on pink gravel in the Park Lane Armoury. The audience are seated on banks of shagpile pink carpeted benches and each given a pair of Beats by Dr Dre headphones to wear for the show. Through the headphones a disembodied voice intones instructions: “Bring out the crooked smile and the backpack”; “Go into the house and take a shower”.

Is he talking to the Marc Jacobs army parading around the exterior of the house in military serge with their mandarin-collared jackets and oversized buttons? Is he controlling the girls with their shaggy black bobs and their satin-belted army style? Who is he?

Fashion shows as theatre is something Jacobs is a master of and possibly it distracts from seeing the clothes for what they are. Certainly some of the details like the huge resin buttons, the macramé lace inserts, the rich luxury of the wool and linen were of the highest quality. It didn’t look much like a spring/summer collection but the glitter-strapped sliders will no doubt be on everyone’s wish list any day now.

To become part of the Marc Jacobs army click below and shop Spring/Summer 2015 Marc Jacobs now: