THAT Seventies Show – is fast becoming the way to sum up Milan Fashion Week, from Gucci to Prada and onto Emilio Pucci.
“It’s always resonated with me. I think it’s a reaction,” said Pucci creative director Peter Dundas backstage by way of explanation. “I really wanted to do it last time so just thought I’m just going to do it.” Fair enough.
Whether the fashion forces of Milan got together to conspire in favour of the era or not, it’s on next summer’s agenda for sure – but it just depends on what kind of Seventies spirit you are.
“It’s my girls,” said Dundas, referring to Poppy Delevingne who was bejewelled and Pucci-fied out front. What he meant was that bohemian and carefree spirit – but situated in a contemporary context.
And this was very much a happy-hippy collection: plunge-neck crochet dresses embroidered with flowers, be-tasselled ponchos of the same effect, wispy butterfly-billowing maxi dresses, psychedelic shades and prints of Zap ice lolly optics, waistcoats, skinny suits, flares – tick, tick, tick for the Seventies. There were even those orange and brown colour clashes.
Halter necks, empire lines, gypsy tops and gilets – the repertoire continued as a mash-up of Fleetwood Mac played out – and then Naomi Campbell took a turn on the catwalk.
With all its colour and exotic psychedelic prints, Pucci is a brand that sits well in the Seventies – and will do in the second wave of the Noughties with so many trend boxes ticked this season.
Click below and shop the vibrant collection of Spring/Summer 2015 Emilio Pucci:
As the season’s blend together and trends fly by ever faster, so transitional pieces gain greater value. A case in point? The spring coat, fashioned in breezy wool or supple leather. Practical, wearable, efortlessly stylish: make it your new fashion failsafe.
Add a pop of colour to your coat to brighten up a rainy day – tangerine and lemon seen at Emilio Pucci and Michael Kors, or Dior and Miu Miu’s candy pink.
Lightweight leathers provide the perfect mid-season coat for the unpredictable British weather or take a styling cue from Miu Miu – roll up your sleeves to further the transitional season aesthetic.
Had Erdem been leafing through the pages of Joseph Conrad’s A Heart of Darkness? The show set was a huge, imposing forest and underneath the verdant vines Erdem proved that when it comes to creating clothes that women long to wear, he’s anything but green.
Erdem has been riffing on the sweet spot between beauty and darkness for a few seasons now and for spring / summer 15 he found the balance. Floor length gowns were the form here, tiered, sheer, richly embroidered with botanics, with just a smattering of separates. A tweed sleeveless top was best, styled in a contemporary way with a delicate bag shaped like a book slung across the body. The amount of embroidery was vast and any hint of OTT pomp was diluted with boyish flat shoes. The leaf and branch stitch work sat against windows of period conservatories stitched on to dresses, that and the high Victorian collars brought a classic, historic appeal to a collection that felt very right for now.
To shop Erdem visit: www.erdem.com or click below to shop the beautiful florals of Spring/Summer 2015 Erdem:
IT was a paper jungle in the round for Karl Lagerfeld’s couture offering, opened by Chanel gardeners with their waterless cans in khaki and a straw version of the hats he had embellished with tulle for the show.
The clothes were light in an extraordinary medley of fabrics that only Chanel is capable of creating – thousand-colour boucle and crystal flowered epaulettes. The block-colour wool suits that opened the show came with A-line skirts and long jackets but were swiftly replaced by the introduction of a new line – narrow and falling from the hip with a thin fabric belt looped through and hanging loose. Rooted in the flat leather boots, this silhouette looked fresh, often paired with midriff-baring tops.
Flowers were everywhere, from the hems and shoulder to the arm warmers of tulle and the hair decorations of transparent plastic hanging from the low plait Sam McKnight had given each girl.
You couldn’t help but think Karl had possibly been inspired by Cara Delevingne’s style with the wool beanies flecked with ostrich feathers that looked great with the evening wear. It was an optimistic light show that gave Chanel a youthful vitality without losing its elegance.
To shop more Chanel visit: www.chanel.com or click below to shop the latest Spring/Summer 2015 Chanel couture look: