WHAT better way to cement your reputation as the working woman’s go-to brand than to stage your spring/summer 2015 fashion show in an entrance tunnel to Kings Cross tube station? The novel idea came from Whistles, who in doing so cleverly took their customer off the catwalk and put her into context: on-the-go and always looking good. The tight edit of sleeveless jumpsuits, cutout dresses, tactile knits and statement jackets in a limited colour palette of white, black, peach and the palest of blue all emanated the brand’s progressive-but-pared-back mix and will no doubt fly off the shelves when they hit the shop floor next year. A very stylish commute beckons.
THE first show season since Temperley London combined its mainline and ALICE offerings and things are looking strong. That was a good idea – and you could see the balance between the two working all the better for now working as one. It felt fresh, young, clean, tight, modern.
“It was great to focus solely on an amazing show collection with more daywear, core pieces and loads of very versatile separates,” explained Temperley pre-show, singling out again “versatile” and “sexy” as key buzzwords.
“I was inspired by colour and print from very naughty Japanese paintings, woodblock prints, surreal sea creatures and lots of mixing of layers and kimono references with our looks both for day and evening,” she went on. And all of this was entirely evident. Cropped trench jackets, breezy skirts worn over trousers but whose effect was only really felt wafting away as it did at the back, gingham and plaid, pink and black stripes, dense embroideries, stiff A-line silhouettes.
Slouchy-boxy tailoring was given the Temperley edge with lace accents and despite all of these references and layers, it never felt heavy.
“The Temperley girl is more relaxed with a very sexy attitude,” the designer pointed out.
The mood suits her well.
Click below to shop Spring/Summer 2015 Temperley London looks:
WELL, there can’t be many one-year-old babies with their very own front row seat at Paris Fashion Week. The current count tallies to one in fact, at Givenchy, where mademoiselle North West, dressed in a custom-made full-length Givenchy black sheer dress took her seat alongside parents, Kanye West and Kim Kardashian, dressed in a plunging, sheer black lace jumpsuit. It was a family affair with Kendall Jenner on the runway.
The family certainly looked the part as the show opened with a series of graphic, sexy black dresses with trussed up corseted bodices and lacy sheer skirts. It was hard-edged and yet… romantic.
It’s an odd parallel but part of Riccardo Tisci’s appeal is in his ability to meld those two disparate worlds so convincingly. These are dresses that are all-out fierce, a little bit slutty (further enhanced by the thigh-high boots they were partnered with) but all of that is counterbalanced by the divine craftsmanship at play. The lace here this evening was so fine it looked like it could have floated right off, up into there air were it not anchored with leather strips spliced into those pleats, or harnessed down with backless waistcoats crafted from stiffened leather with crocodile panels.
Pirate blouses flounced about like ship’s sales, while humbug black and white striped narrow-shouldered jackets festooned with corseted lacing kept the silhouette tight and lean. With legs clad in leather leggings or spray on jeans, the detail was all about up top.
The only sighting of colour amongst this entirely monochrome collection came in the shape of a fleshy pink leather dress, plunging, tight to the body with a pleated and ruffled skirt. Severe, and yet… oh so pretty.
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IT wasn’t shaping up to be a particularly starry front row, until just before the lights went down and Kim, Kanye and baby North (in a Balenciaga full look of course) took their front row seats.
Isn’t she cute! Isn’t she well behaved? The rest of the room went gaga for baby North momentarily and then an intensity as bright as the paparazzi bulbs snapping her image followed. And then it was time to turn our attention to the clothes.
Alexander Wang’s love of modernism, black, and a glossy finish was out in full effect (albeit it with hint at Cristobel Balenciaga’s legacy) as an army of girls stormed down the runway. The tailored fluidity of floor-length overcoats whispered archive – think a Balenciaga balloon jacket seen through a Matrix movie prism, and the precise cut (the black jumpsuits with embellished pockets were particularly articulate) reminded us of the skill of the house, but the tone was (of course) sporty, there was no romance here.
Rather than the sumptuous gowns of Balenciaga way back when, this show offered a modern girl fresh take on cocktail dressing, and sporty looks to go luxe level clubbing in. Jumpsuits, sheer-sleeved short suits and halter necklines, and mesh – tons of mesh and techy fabrics.
The final pastel section softened the show. And Kim’s favourite look? A white mesh top with a band of crystals across the décolletage seemed to pique her interest, in fact you could see her in most of what was on show here.
And what about North? Even she clapped at the end (with the help of her doting father of course).
To shop more Balenciaga visit: www.balenciaga.com or click below to shop the Spring/Summer 2015 Balenciaga look: