The allure of a little white lace dress is timeless, but both Altuzarra and Rodarte added a little subversion to their offerings in the form of chokers and up-to-there leather boots. Altuzarra’s femme has a stricter sense of kink, with a bold black choker and suggestively frilly lace-up boots—she’s an Edwardian bad gal through and through, though she does get a bra to wear underneath her barely-there dress, which is more than Rodarte’s prairie disco babe can say. The sisters Mulleavy dressed up their pastoral offering with a buckle choker and thigh-high croc boots, but left the underpinnings out, turning their arty girl’s sweet reputation on its head.
IT was a paper jungle in the round for Karl Lagerfeld’s couture offering, opened by Chanel gardeners with their waterless cans in khaki and a straw version of the hats he had embellished with tulle for the show.
The clothes were light in an extraordinary medley of fabrics that only Chanel is capable of creating – thousand-colour boucle and crystal flowered epaulettes. The block-colour wool suits that opened the show came with A-line skirts and long jackets but were swiftly replaced by the introduction of a new line – narrow and falling from the hip with a thin fabric belt looped through and hanging loose. Rooted in the flat leather boots, this silhouette looked fresh, often paired with midriff-baring tops.
Flowers were everywhere, from the hems and shoulder to the arm warmers of tulle and the hair decorations of transparent plastic hanging from the low plait Sam McKnight had given each girl.
You couldn’t help but think Karl had possibly been inspired by Cara Delevingne’s style with the wool beanies flecked with ostrich feathers that looked great with the evening wear. It was an optimistic light show that gave Chanel a youthful vitality without losing its elegance.
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