As London Fashion Week draws to a close, designers are wending their way home from Samantha Cameron’s party to sleep for the first time in days, and editors are thinking about what they’ll be remembering from a sightseeing tour of the city that took them all over the map. In general: Despite traffic and lashings of London rain, it was a week of individualism, British humor, prettiness, and emotional surprises.
1. BURBERRY PRORSUM
Pop concerts in Hyde Park are always part of London’s summer life. This time Christopher Bailey put music center stage in his own tent in the park, hosting a mini gig by Alison Moyet as his girls circled the orchestra pit in silk slip dresses, military jackets, and monogrammed backpacks. All tied back to Burberry’s first-of-its-kind branded music channel on Apple’s new streaming music service.
Watch the Burberry 2016 show below.
2. ERDEM
HOLDING your show in a theatre sets up an expectation of drama, and Erdem was in the mood to entertain. Erdem Moralioglu’s poetic excursion to the prairies made a compelling case for the return of Victoriana-meets-’70s long dresses.
3. J.W.ANDERSON
Puff sleeve, point number one: When Jonathan Anderson’s gigantic, inflated leg-of-mutton sleeves first hit the eye, it was a case of: What’s that? Is it Edwardian, is it ’80s, is it Henry VIII? Or is it just what we’ll be wanting to wear, any minute?
Keith Haring-style black and white squiggles, tiny bee-sting sized cupped bras worn over engineered knits, pink eyelash trimmed lace whipped into blouses or cycling shorts that skimmed thighs, and mannish tailoring with overlock stitch trim, like someone turned the whole thing inside out. A million ideas came hard and fast, most still steeped in the Eighties – a JW favourite – but a wholly different Eighties to last season.
4. SIMONE ROCHA
Cloud-like silhouettes and prints appropriately floated on by with bows unfurling at hips and shoulders and speckled with jewels; wrapping took centre stage, for brace-like affirmations that framed the body in chord. It was tulle and it was light, delicate and incredibly Simone. And still relatively early on in her career, that’s a great thing to be able to say. Puff sleeve, point number two: The series of pretty pink party dresses Simone Rocha marched out under the ornate ceilings of Lancaster House had puff sleeves going on, too—plus a little bit of subversive perversity in those cross-body bandolier straps.
5. CHRISTOPHER KANE
From high up on the 35th floor in London’s Sky Garden, the view of the city was filtered through mist and rain. Christopher Kane brought neon lace back in a “car crash”–themed show certain to drive fans straight to his store to raid the fringing, the fractured tailoring, and the funny “explosion” envelope bags.
6. MARY KATRANTZOU
IN what was surely one of Mary Katrantzou’s most directly wearable collections yet, the designer returned to cosmology and the world as a starting point. Mary Katrantzou’s cosmic gypsy-trip into tiny rose prints and micro-sequined embroidery was a departure into lightness that took her collaging talent to a different dimension.
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London Fashion Week 2015: Guide To Soho
When the British Fashion Council announced London Fashion Week would be moving to Brewer Street, I have to confess I was secretly excited.
Although Somerset House is iconic – far more attractive than an old, converted car park – it never provided the most palatable offering of eateries, brew houses and late night restaurants to keep everyone entertained.
Soho, on the other hand, is a veritable feast of palette teasing, tastebud tingling concoctions alongside a cultural mix of galleries, tranquil escapes and pampering havens to help make those 120 hours of madness a little bit easier. Need some guidance on where to find the best hangouts? We’ve got you covered…
COFFEE: Because sleep is rare during LFW…
Soho Grind
19 Beak Street
An all day espresso bar with a late-night, cocktail-offering basement space. Get your caffeine fix from morning to night.
Milkbar
3 Bateman Street
Brewed simplicity from a friendly crew in a secluded destination. Coffee comes with a side of food, art and music – the perfect place for those who would never even think of the word Starbucks.
Tap & Co.
193 Wardour Street
Work, play, relax and chat with a pot of proper – and delicious – coffee. These finest ingredients are mixed with a debonair edge. Also, staff at the brewing station are ridiculously charming.
BREAKFAST: Because it genuinely is the most important meal of the day…
The Breakfast Club
33 D’Arblay Street
A Soho institution, this intimate bolthole is nearly always chockers, but if you’re lucky enough to snag a table order the All American Breakfast – goes down a treat, keeps you full up til tea time.
Dean Street Townhouse
69-71 Dean Street
Start the day in style in this old Georgian-era institution, where breakfast fodder ranges from muesli to kedgeree with everything in between. Attentive table service ensures a quick departure for the first show of the day.
Fernandez & Wells
73 Beak Street
With their own blend of single origin beans, the coffee here goes perfectly with a side of buttered toast and jam. Simple yet quintessentially English.
HEALTH SHOT: Because fashion week flu sucks…
The Juice Well
4 Peter Street
Bottled, natural fuel designed to rejuvenate, cleanse, hydrate and uplift. The trendiest thing on the menu? The Hunger Buster juice – its activated charcoal is the ingredient of the moment when it comes to all things wellness.
Savage Salads
20-24 Broadwick Street
Technically street food, these gourmet, healthy salads with a tasty twist attract a daily queue around the block. Apple and Spotify are said to be fans FYI.
Ethos Recharge Tote
48 Eastcastle Street
This vegetarian haven off Oxford Street is offering a special LFW survival tote featuring vegetable pots, salads and your choice of birch or maple water. Warning: It’s brilliant but at £16.50, decidedly not budget friendly.
LUNCH: Because everyone needs a mid-day refuel…
Jane Tira
26 Brewer Street
Thai street food at the luxury of a table. Choose Son-in-Law Balls to start, and follow with any of the ample choices of rice or noodles. Trust me on the balls.
Rose Bakery
17-18 Dover Street
A slice of Paris in central London for a light lunch including quiche, roasted vegetables, sumptuous salads and sweets to finish – all set within the city’s coolest store.
Spuntino
61 Rupert Street
Bare brick walls, popcorn appetizers and distressed metal fixings make this American-meets-Italian diner a haven for hipsters and locals alike. Their classy take on the classic peanut and jelly sandwich is a must-try.
DINNER: Because a daily debrief is best done over supper…
Yauatcha
15-17 Broadwick Street
A personal favourite. Sample trays of dim sum perfection (like their duck and pumpkin morsels) with copious amounts of colourful cocktails.
Duck & Rice
90 Berwick Street
East meets west in this classic pub style setting that serves up cask ales alongside Chinese bar snacks and quintessential Asian food.
Social Eating House
58 Poland Street
Warm, hearty and just what the doctor ordered after hours sat on hard benches and walking the streets of London in heels. Food fills the belly and ensnares the senses – the macaroni & cheese with black truffle is really the standout dish. Meanwhile The Blind Pig speakeasy bar downstairs provides the perfect post-gorging sanctuary.
DRINKS: Because all of these incredible shows deserve a little celebration…
La Bodega Negra
9 Old Compton Street
For an insight into Soho’s seedier side, step inside this sex-shop fronted cocktail den for a taste of Mexico. Warning: the tequila-infused potions are completely intoxicating so be sure to order some tacos, tostaditas or Jacob Ladder Ribs.
Old Tom and English
187B Wardour Street
This speakeasy style, Tom Dixon-designed basement bar is hidden behind an unassuming grey fronted door. Step inside, sip on a Sloe Gin Fizz and instantly be whisked away from the fashion week hubbub.
Basement Sate
8 Broadwick Street
Cocktails and cake make the perfect combination at this late-night underground bar. The Jessica Rabbit tipple (gin, carrot juice, golden syrup and elderflower) sits perfectly alongside the Peanut Butter Jelly Time dessert – decadence at its most inventive.
As seen on: WGSN Guide To Soho
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