Best Accessories From Paris Fashion Week

Well, the Parisians know how to end with a bang—especially when it comes to what we want to be wearing next spring.

At Balenciaga, all-white lacy Chinatown-style spa slippers ruled the runway, while Céline’s two-tone ankle boots were similarly both sensible and compellingly chic (if less tongue-in-cheek).

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Translucent accessories emerged as a micro-trend, with PVC paneling lending itself to a sporty vibe at Loewe and Chanel.

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At Vetements, Demna Gvasalia’s thigh-high embroidered boots—part wader, part cowboy—felt off-kilter and cool in all the right ways. For those with more classic intentions, the exquisitely crafted necklaces gracing the models at Valentino were breathtaking, while at Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière stuck to the brand’s traditional monogram logo but splashed it across new bag shapes, including a sharply pleated drawstring backpack that left us swooning.

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There was truly something for everyone. (Now whether there’s something for every budget, on the other hand . . .)


Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Loewe

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In just one season, JW Anderson managed to transform Loewe – the label at which he was appointed creative director at the end of 2013 following the departure of Stuart Vevers. His trophy T-shirts from his spring/summer 2015 debut were spotted at London Fashion Week and his leather trousers today sat happily on the front row. Already he’d managed to create “it” appeal – and such is the stamp that he’s put on the brand (injecting his own cult of personality), it can be hard to remember Loewe pre-J Dubs.

This collection, he continued in that vein, this second collection an extended drilling down of his woman, who she is, what she wears, when and how. And even if she herself doesn’t know, Anderson is going to tell her.

“We were trying to find the woman in winter. A bit laboratory, something future but in the reality,” the designer configured of his starting point this season. There were whiffs of his eponymous line and its Eighties stance  to be found here. “I do both brands. I want them to be different but want them to communicate what I feel. She [the Loewe woman] is older, harder. It’s about playing,” he said.

His toys of choice obviously began with leather – the remit of the luxury heritage house. He gave us mint and lilac trouser and mac combinations; blouson panelled jackets that were beautifully crafted and executed; a continuation of last season’s wide-leg trouser – spotted here mostly beneath dresses in graphic green, grey or red prints. He added to that with glossy red, sophisticated navy, glistening green and pleated lamé skirts and dresses, lemon yellow funnel-neck jumpers that inflated into shape, tie details at the neck of capes and at the waist of silver pleated swaying skirts or more wide-leg trousers. It was that touch of the hand, a nod to craft.

Of course accessories played a part – an original core of the brand. “We went tougher on accessories. It’s winter so you want something more robust. We were thinking about bags that fit into different periods of the day,” said Anderson. They ran from handheld pochettes like little historical coin purses, to neat and compact handbags with turquoise chevron handles. Their lines continued onto the bags themselves and onto the toe caps of beautiful navy boots.

“The shoes and bags either need to contradict or work together with everything,” he said of his train of thought, though quick to note that neither the clothes or accessories are more important than the other.

“There’s a tension in the collection,” he summed up. And no doubt, with the press raving already as they queued up to chat to the designer backstage, there’ll be a tension as to who gets to wear this season first. Anderson’s Loewe chapter continues with great success.

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Spring/Summer 2015 Loewe

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If J.W. Anderson’s own collection in London was surprisingly, pleasingly straightforward, his catwalk debut at Loewe suggested why. All that wayward J.W. action had gone south, to Loewe’s headquarters in sunny Spain. Yes, sunny. Instead of the somewhat heavy, leathery Loewe those who know the brand might be familiar with, there were the Balearic lightness and sensuality that Anderson began to explore with his men’s collection for the house. At first glace, the Isamu Noguchi garden at the UNESCO building where the show was staged might have seemed the very antithesis of those notions. But step back, check the sculptural stones and benches, and you could have been in the rocky fabulosity of Formentera. And that’s where Anderson was taking us, to somewhere physical and primal. A sheath in the honey-toned suede Loewe calls “oro” was decked with random applications of hide, a 21st-century Wilma Flintstone. Right behind it, something black, bowed at the waist, with a handful of suede samples dangling from its yoke. Precision and chaos—the kind of dialogue Anderson cherishes in his work.

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The primal, organic nature of the collection asserted itself in the knots of a cotton tank laid over a navy skirt with brutal diagonal slashes, or in a raw silk knit tank over huge white linen pants. There was an appealingly wayward imprecision to such pieces. But the other half of the collection was something else altogether: high-waisted leather trousers in a rainbow of colors, tied judo-style at the waist. Anderson had imagined them crisscrossing on his complex set in a pleasurable blur. He wasn’t wrong. And their leatheriness underscored just why Loewe makes such an appropriate, if peculiar, fit for Anderson. He is fascinated by skin. Here, there was a trench in oro that was simply gorgeous. Less so, the latex tees perversely printed with a game-bird graphic from the Loewe archive. But, as Anderson pointed out, that was a kind of skin, too.Spring.Summer 2015 Loewe 5Spring.Summer 2015 Loewe 4