THE first show season since Temperley London combined its mainline and ALICE offerings and things are looking strong. That was a good idea – and you could see the balance between the two working all the better for now working as one. It felt fresh, young, clean, tight, modern.
“It was great to focus solely on an amazing show collection with more daywear, core pieces and loads of very versatile separates,” explained Temperley pre-show, singling out again “versatile” and “sexy” as key buzzwords.
“I was inspired by colour and print from very naughty Japanese paintings, woodblock prints, surreal sea creatures and lots of mixing of layers and kimono references with our looks both for day and evening,” she went on. And all of this was entirely evident. Cropped trench jackets, breezy skirts worn over trousers but whose effect was only really felt wafting away as it did at the back, gingham and plaid, pink and black stripes, dense embroideries, stiff A-line silhouettes.
Slouchy-boxy tailoring was given the Temperley edge with lace accents and despite all of these references and layers, it never felt heavy.
“The Temperley girl is more relaxed with a very sexy attitude,” the designer pointed out.
The mood suits her well.
Click below to shop Spring/Summer 2015 Temperley London looks:
HERE’S one for the shopping list: if you don’t buy anything else all spring – buy knitwear. Knitwear was woven in organic yarn – what else? – and crafted into slouchy asymmetric silhouettes while a series of romantic silk dresses jigsaw-ed together from clashing patterns and prints tapped into Stella’s soft side.
A faded plaid print on fluttering silk was wishy-washy in the line-up but those silk trench coats were winners, so too her drawstring parachute silk parkas, billowing behind.
It may sound like an odd observation but Stella McCartney makes clothes that are women-friendly. There is no crash diet to get on to before slipping into one of her baggy jumpsuits; nothing to consider when it comes to deciding what to throw on under one of her silk trench coats – any dress will do, or a favourite pair of jeans and a T-shirt. For that reason her clothes can be empowering. Nothing is too complicated, there’s nothing to get your head around.
Sometimes that can translate into a collection that flatlines: this offering wasn’t perhaps bursting at the seams with zingy new ideas but it didn’t have to. Stella knows her woman and what she wants to wear come summer: she wants to look pretty and a little bit cool, and she’ll find that here.
Click below and shop the latest Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2015 slouchy, soft and silky designs:
The Fall 2015 season is under way. It might take you weeks to get caught up on all the shows, so here is a daily edit of the best accessories and details from the collections, as selected by Style.com’s fashion market director, Rachael Wang.
Mary Katrantzou At Mary Katrantzou, the models floated by on chunky platforms wrapped in jewel-tone velvet, a girlish look complete with opaque ribbed tights and a Pepto-Bismol pink runway made of foam.
Ralph Lauren A wide-brim felt fedora isn’t necessarily breaking news, but there’s something to be said for a really good hat. Ralph Lauren’s oversize teddy brown version is an instant classic and added the perfect bit of rugged panache to a very glamorous collection.
Michael Kors Michael Kors nailed it with this top-handle handbag that reads like a mint-condition treasure you might find at an antique market. It’s equal parts luggage and doctor bag with enough hardware to make it special, the right warm caramel leather to make it versatile, and the perfect chubby size to make it practical for everyday.
Jason Wu It’s still early days, but Fall 2015 is going to be a big season for fur. Jason Wu’s belted stole added just the right covetable punctuation to an otherwise simple head-to-toe olive look.
IT’S two seasons in for Alessandra Dell’Acqua at Rochas – the No 21 designer replaced Marco Zanini at the end of last year and made his debut for the house last February and cooked up a resort collection in between.
At No 21, Dell’ Acqua is known for his ability to join the dots between girl-boy dressing and we saw an offshoot of that this afternoon – his weapon of choice being a utility belt to add an industrial-futuristic feel to typically beautiful and fragile Rochas looks that under Zanini’s tenure had simply just been about the frou. Whether wearing your belt up high around your bust over a bejewelled black evening coat or jacket (or ball gown) will catch on in the real world is a different story, but here it helped to bring a modern plot to the house.
But there was plenty of lace and grace to be found too: the show notes cited sentimental adjectives – “virginal shyness”, “blooming sensuality”, “delicate”, “preciousness” – and they all performed.
Emphasis was on the back with high-neck collars unfolding into bows and sweeping down the back. Waists were dropped for fun and youthful appeal while Victoriana notes came in lace and high front-facing collars on long gowns.
“Naive” and “innocent” perfectly captured the sense of what was going on here, transparency was key. There was night-time allure about dressing gown dresses and coats, the girls ghost-like in their there-then-gone appearances.
A special mention has to go to the shoes which, as is fast becoming the Rochas staple, were tinsel-smothered at the front like a high-end feather duster and teamed with socks cut away at the heel.
But the main thing to take away was the utility belt. Will you?
Click below to shop more delicate, precious and feminine Rochas Spring/Summer 2015: