Spring/Summer 2015 Chloe

THE winning ideas here were to be found in Clare Waight Keller’s series of butter soft suede shorts and shirt combos (in a perfect shade of toffee) and elsewhere in her offering of indigo denim looks, worked into cropped straight-leg jeans, minis, and maxi skirts with cargo pockets. It lent an urban, utilitarian edge to this house and ticked many of the emerging spring trends.

But for better or worse, bohemia is never far from the mood board. Those balloon sleeve blouses, breezy kaftans and romantic cheesecloth dresses suspended from camisole straps and edged in pretty crochet will no doubt appeal to Ibiza types, while full-length goddess gowns anchored with empire line metal work will be just the ticket for a summer wedding.

Today, Clare Waight Keller dedicated her collection to Chloe’s founding designer, Gaby Aghion, who sadly passed away yesterday at her home in Paris age 93.

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Spring/Summer 2015 Balenciaga

IT wasn’t shaping up to be a particularly starry front row, until just before the lights went down and Kim, Kanye and baby North (in a Balenciaga full look of course) took their front row seats.

Isn’t she cute! Isn’t she well behaved? The rest of the room went gaga for baby North momentarily and then an intensity as bright as the paparazzi bulbs snapping her image followed. And then it was time to turn our attention to the clothes.

Alexander Wang’s love of modernism, black, and a glossy finish was out in full effect (albeit it with hint at Cristobel Balenciaga’s legacy) as an army of girls stormed down the runway. The tailored fluidity of floor-length overcoats whispered archive – think a Balenciaga balloon jacket seen through a Matrix movie prism, and the precise cut (the black jumpsuits with embellished pockets were particularly articulate) reminded us of the skill of the house, but the tone was (of course) sporty, there was no romance here.

Rather than the sumptuous gowns of Balenciaga way back when, this show offered a modern girl fresh take on cocktail dressing, and sporty looks to go luxe level clubbing in. Jumpsuits, sheer-sleeved short suits and halter necklines, and mesh – tons of mesh and techy fabrics.

The final pastel section softened the show. And Kim’s favourite look? A white mesh top with a band of crystals across the décolletage seemed to pique her interest, in fact you could see her in most of what was on show here.

And what about North? Even she clapped at the end (with the help of her doting father of course).

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Spring/Summer 2015 Chanel Couture

IT was a paper jungle in the round for Karl Lagerfeld’s couture offering, opened by Chanel gardeners with their waterless cans in khaki and a straw version of the hats he had embellished with tulle for the show.

The clothes were light in an extraordinary medley of fabrics that only Chanel is capable of creating – thousand-colour boucle and crystal flowered epaulettes. The block-colour wool suits that opened the show came with A-line skirts and long jackets but were swiftly replaced by the introduction of a new line – narrow and falling from the hip with a thin fabric belt looped through and hanging loose. Rooted in the flat leather boots, this silhouette looked fresh, often paired with midriff-baring tops.

Flowers were everywhere, from the hems and shoulder to the arm warmers of tulle and the hair decorations of transparent plastic hanging from the low plait Sam McKnight had given each girl.

You couldn’t help but think Karl had possibly been inspired by Cara Delevingne’s style with the wool beanies flecked with ostrich feathers that looked great with the evening wear. It was an optimistic light show that gave Chanel a youthful vitality without losing its elegance.

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Spring/Summer 2015 Saint Laurent

HEDI SLIMANE can certainly draw a crowd. His stellar front row this evening was peppered with a host of musicians – Lenny Kravitz, Lou Doillon, Miles Kane, and Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem Christo of Daft Punk, Peter Doherty and Carl Barat of The Libertines, in addition to former Yves Saint Laurent muses, Catherine Deneuve and Betty Catroux.

His little black book that serves as the show invitation featured a catalogue of works by Robert Heinecken, the American artist best known for his appropriation of imagery – sometimes pornographic – from magazines and packaging. It’s an area that clearly interests Slimane, remember, last autumn/winter, it was John Baldessari another artist of the same ilk whose images featured on these pages.

There is something of that in Slimane – ok, less of the pornographic, perhaps (but there is no denying his girl has edge) – but the designer certainly has a knack of taking all the good bits of what’s gone before and re-proposing them as new ideas for now.

There were 55 looks here, and every one will be poured over by his coterie of fans. From the opening cherry printed one-shouldered fluttery dress – not entirely romantic when teamed with ‘cheap’ 10-denier tights – to the black leather coat, micro tan suede jacket with popper fastening (and a host of other cropped leather jackets, all updates to his hit fringed numbers that sold like hot cakes – despite the price tag circling a figure of £2500) to the camo army jackets, pinstripe blazers, denim hot pants and star print mini dresses. Girls – and women – will want it all. No, there wasn’t anything that we hadn’t ever seen before but it didn’t matter, because it all felt terrifically right again – yes, even those cheap tights – and isn’t it that that matters?

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