2015 CFDA Awards | 04/06/2015

  Womenswear Designer of the Year nominees:
Joseph Altuzarra, Altuzarra
Marc Jacobs
Michael Kors
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler
WINNER: Mary-Kate Olsen & Ashley Olsen, The Row

Menswear Designer of the Year nominees:
Thom Browne
Tim Coppens
WINNER: Tom Ford
Dao-Yi Chow & Maxwell Osborne, Public School
Marcus Wainwright & David Neville, Rag & Bone

Accessories Designer of the Year nominees:
Alexander Wang
WINNER: Tabitha Simmons
Mary-Kate Olsen & Ashley Olsen, The Row
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler
Irene Neuwirth 

Swarovski Award for Womenswear nominees:
WINNER: Rosie Assoulin
Dao-Yi Chow & Maxwell Osborne, Public School
Ryan Roche

Swarovski Award for Menswear nominees:
WINNER: Shayne Oliver, Hood by Air
Alex Orley, Matthew Orley & Samantha Orley, Orley
Shimon Ovadia & Ariel Ovadia, Ovadia & Sons

Swarovski Award for Accessory Design nominees:
Paul Andrew
Eva Zuckerman, Eva Fehren
WINNER: Rachel Mansur & Floriana Gavriel, Mansur Gavriel

Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award: Betsey Johnson

International Award: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino

The Founder’s Award in Honor of Eleanor Lambert: Mickey Drexler

The Media Award in Honor of Eugenia Sheppard: Instagram

Fashion Icon Award: Pharrell Williams

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It may have been a long night, but the CFDA Fashion Awards, held as usual at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall, weren’t boring. James Corden, of The Late Late Show fame and the evening’s first-time host, started things off by lampooning the industry to the tune of “to dream ‘The Impossible Dream,’” and got progressively more fearless as his bit went on, sticking it to Terry Richardson, who wasn’t in the audience to defend himself, and Kanye West, who was. “Kim and Kanye are both presenting this evening,” Corden said. “I should warn you that Kanye is going to interrupt both speeches to say that Beyoncé should have won them.”

West made no interruptions, but he did deliver one of his trademark soliloquies when it came time to introduce this year’s Fashion Icon, Pharrell Williams, near the end of the ceremony. “What’s up, CFDA? You know how [President] Obama brought out the angrier version of himself? I’m sort of like the angrier version of Pharrell.” After rapping the opening lines of “New Slaves,” he took the crowd to task for “completely destroying” his first collection, which, he reminded the audience, sold out—$6,000 shoes included. When he eventually did wind around to the subject of Williams, West said, “there would be no me, no A$AP [Rocky], without Pharrell being the nicer version of Obama.” Williams, displaying his own trademark niceness, had kind words for everyone from his jeweler Lorraine Schwartz to “the genius” Rei Kawakubo.

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In between, Chelsea Clinton took to the stage for a remembrance of Oscar de la Renta; the Italian actress Valeria Golino paid tribute to the Italian designers and International Award winners Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino; and Kelly Osbourne made an endearing speech about Betsey Johnson, the evening’s Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award winner. Yes, Johnson is 72 (she’s got two years on J.Crew’s Mickey Drexler, who picked up the Founder’s Award). And yes, she did do a cartwheel into a perfect split, jostling loose a few crystals from her bib necklace, before accepting her statuette.

To cap off the evening’s all-star lineup, The Row’s Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen accepted the Womenswear Designer of the Year prize, beating out Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, the Proenza Schouler duo, and Joseph Altuzarra. It fact, it was a good night for women designers, celebrity and otherwise, with Tabitha Simmons winning the Accessories Designer of the Year Award, and Rosie Assoulin and Mansur Gavriel’s Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel taking home the Swarovski prizes for womenswear and accessories, respectively. On the guys’ side of things, Swarovski winner Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air had almost as many letters stenciled on the back of his head—HBA—as he uttered words on stage. Tom Ford, who received the menswear award, and is a little more practiced at these things, remembered his 15 minutes at this venue last year. “I’m so glad to know that there is life after the Lifetime Achievement Award.”

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Spring/Summer 2015 Marc Jacobs

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A BUBBLE GUM pink suburban house sits on pink gravel in the Park Lane Armoury. The audience are seated on banks of shagpile pink carpeted benches and each given a pair of Beats by Dr Dre headphones to wear for the show. Through the headphones a disembodied voice intones instructions: “Bring out the crooked smile and the backpack”; “Go into the house and take a shower”.

Is he talking to the Marc Jacobs army parading around the exterior of the house in military serge with their mandarin-collared jackets and oversized buttons? Is he controlling the girls with their shaggy black bobs and their satin-belted army style? Who is he?

Fashion shows as theatre is something Jacobs is a master of and possibly it distracts from seeing the clothes for what they are. Certainly some of the details like the huge resin buttons, the macramé lace inserts, the rich luxury of the wool and linen were of the highest quality. It didn’t look much like a spring/summer collection but the glitter-strapped sliders will no doubt be on everyone’s wish list any day now.

To become part of the Marc Jacobs army click below and shop Spring/Summer 2015 Marc Jacobs now:
 

 

 


Met Gala 2014

My top three Met Gala 2014 best dressed:

#1: Blake Lively

Blake Lively in an absolutely stunning Gucci Première and Ryan Reynolds in matching Gucci to perfect the award winning couples look.

#2: Beyoncé

Jay Z in Givenchy Couture Suit and Beyoncé in a dazzling Givenchy Couture dress, Philip Treacy veil, and Lorraine Schwartz jewellery.

 

#3: Sarah Jessica Parker

Sarah Jessica Parker opened the evening in a  glamorous dress form–inspired Oscar de la Renta look and Fred Leighton jewellery, setting the tone for the barrage of Jamesian trains and silhouettes to follow.


Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Marc Jacobs

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Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Marc Jacobs

IF all eyes were on Marc Jacobs tonight – for the first collection he has presented for his mainline since leaving Louis Vuitton, as he prepares for an IPO – his nerves didn’t waver for a moment.

This was an impeccably conceived show from start to finish – we walked in under clouds hanging low from the ceiling, as always with Jacobs what seems lighthearted at first glance took on a more sober feeling later as the clouds cast dark shadows over girls with blank, serious faces, their blunt cut hair held back from pale bare faces with Sixties hair bands.

Leaving last season’s Victoriana fiesta in distant memory, this collection was soft, modern and acted like a palette cleanser to begin a new beginning, a melancholy feel underlined by Happy Days Are Here Again playing repeatedly on the soundtrack. With the Sixties a strong reference, tunic dresses came over heel-length leggings in graphic swipes of muted pink and grey jersey, and then bulgy ribbed knit. At one point glitter took over, with cocktail dresses coming over the entire ensemble, and then gorgeous degrade dyed fur bombers made themselves known as the defining pieces of the season.

Later tulle frilled dresses fell in more degrade like a soft stratus version of the clouds above us, in blush or sky blue. Jacobs explained later that he’d been inspired by women who have strength without aggression and with this collection he’d managed to translate that message brilliantly. 

To shop more Marc Jacobs visit: http://www.marcjacobs.com/