Marni lightened and brightened up the morning for a collection that was laden with Lego colour and eveningwear elegance when it came to layering that twisted and tucked, pinched and folded into place.
It was sportier, and felt like a fresh burst of energy from Consuelo Castiglioni – white, daffodil yellow and the richest of jewel green to incarnate a wardrobe full of wide-leg trousers (a continuation from last season), split tunics and layered dresses and tabard styles. Just as we’ve come to expect and love from the brand, you never quite know where one garment begins and the other ends – here it was a game of dress up with long sleeves splaying out over fingers, sequins jangling beneath asymmetric hems and leaf prints that danced on shoulders in yet more sequins before making a bold impact as print in yellow and green across a mid-length dress. Sculpted graphics did the same and echoed the installation surrounds of the catwalk. That favourite T-shirt-beneath-dress combination factored in a lot here – but upgraded by Marni’s signature complication.
But it’s never just the clothes to contemplate with Marni – you’re looking at those accessories just as much, because they are key in defining and describing the Marni woman. They are so often the dot on the “i” and the cross on the “t”, as it were. Those same leaves hung from lobes in gold, wrists were weighted down by angular bangles and bags were long, width-wise, in metallic and scrunched like a sandwich bag or came as luxe shoppers. And the way to wear your hair is in minimalist bunchies.
THE money shot at this morning’s Giorgio Armani show was the finale look: a shimmering, shining bejewelled being complete with a bob of beads. She encapsulated the glamour of Armani and the designer’s inspiration this season: the sea, the sand and the landscapes they shape.
He started proceedings with a short film directed by the Oscar-winning Paolo Sorrentino and in it, we saw a mystery couple lying on the beach, hand in hand, with only rope to protect their modesty. Had they come from the deep blue sea? Were they from this world of Armani that Sorrentino was introducing? Were they simply on a nice beach day out?
Regardless, when we did get into that Armani water world, the designer took his theme and ran with it – to create multiple dresses that riffed on jellyfish proportions, shapes and movement. Pronounced short skirts splayed over sheer trousers (still an idea that might need some time to catch on) to perfectly replicate the entity in clothes. Fringes trailed from long skirts to reincarnate fish tails and scales and trousers came with pleats that looked like sand ripples – just as though the tide had come in.
The trousers here were mostly cropped and tapered, jackets languid and loose – a series of white suits were particularly beautiful – and shoes flat throughout. This style note helped to keep the collection feeling fresh and youthful too – those glistening dresses somehow seeming less obvious as obligatory eveningwear.
Armani isn’t the only designer diving deep this season – Philipp Plein made his own splash in Milan last night while back in London Ryan Lo took the plunge in his own irreverent way.
To shop Spring/Summer 2015 Giorgio Armani click below:
The opening of Marni’s flower market – for one day only – at the Rontonda Della Besana. Set to be a riot of colour and creation, proceeds from the pop-up – which will sell fashion and homewares – will go towards supporting children’s organisations in keeping with the brand’s philanthropic approach to life.
Today on the catwalk, meanwhile, that approach translated as a collection injected with raw, traveller spirit and back-to-front appeal.
Raw because of the colours – to begin beige, oatmeal and stark white and later bright daffodil yellow and grass green, nothing was tempered here – and because of the asymmetric wrap skirts and kimono-style or patch-worked together dresses, the trailing laces from apron-like styles. There seemed to be a modesty.
But there was a crafted and artisanal element too – through mosaic and jet black floral embellishment on a canvas of clothes in biscuit tones. There was nothing prim or proper about these – as there shouldn’t be with Marni (only when it’s subverting the role of someone being prim and proper).
The back-to-front came through long-sleeved tops and outerwear layers that plunged at the back but were built up around the neck or whose front fastenings veered off, chicane-style, off round the shoulder. There was introverted appeal here ideal for those who like to play at being shy and which was perfect to go with the awkward oversized sleeves that hung well beneath wrists.
On feet there came a sandal-trainer hybrid, tapping right into where the shoe zeitgeist is at now and which are bound to be spotted on many a front row next season.
While initially devoid of florals – and surprisingly so given today’s special event – they came later and were more than made up for in those bright bright colours or were seen as tightly ruched blooms on a beautiful summer coat.
Click below to shop the bright, bold and beautiful colours of Marni’s Spring/Summer 2015 look:
THE Marni show was a blast of energy, texture and colour this morning; designer Consuelo Castiglioni proving once again that her label is one that shirks Milanese reputation and rules for true originality.
She began with coats of heavy wool and neoprene layers – fuchsia with navy or grey with green and tan stiff frills to the knee – in fact the coats today were among the loudest statements: in tufts of mulitcoloured fur; with full frock skirts in curly cream sheepskin or tailored in army green with cascades of feathers and rattling embellishment held to the front by a line of glittering jewels.
There were voluminous, sporty bomber jackets zipped on over matching skirts of green or grey, some with silver roughly sprayed across them, before the metallic moment took over by way of a silver leather parka with a huge sheepskin hood.
The Marni girl goes her own way and is bound to get noticed wherever that may be – her full parachute silk skirt zipped into a matching wool jacket with an emerald fur shrug overtaking her shoulders.
Hair matted into helmets over the crown before falling down the girls’ backs seemed to shout unconventional beauty, as if the Marni message is to encourage experimentation – there was a primitive nature to voluminous boiled wool tunics with matching trousers, hewn in painterly stripes of blush, yellow, green and black or mint, burgundy, tan and black, while nippy little corsets with stiff peplums added a feminine wile to strong layered looks that would take no prisoners.
To shop more Marni visit: www.marni.com or click below to shop the latest Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Marni collection: