The appeal of Haider Ackermann was summed up perfectly by a trio of women sat on his front row this morning. One was dressed in a full traditional Japanese kimono, to her right, a French beauty in a tailored mannish overcoat and next to her an arty ingenue in something blue, languid and draping.
These are the signatures of Ackermann and today he staked a claim on the season with a quiet brilliance. Checkerboard tweeds, boucle shot with glinting threads and skinny, silk spotty scarves provided the frisson – the Ackermann woman is elegant for sure, but she looks to the label for tasteful interpretations of texture which give her permission to express her creativity.
“She’s artistic and fashion forward,” said Ruth Chapman, the co-owner of MatchesFashion.com. “Even though it looks tricksy on the catwalk you split it up and it works. It’s just cool.”
Things did get a bit fussy at points, mainly around the waist where peplums, strapping and folds of fabric complicated an other wise elegant line. But that didn’t tip the balance of brilliance. Loose top-stitching on the waistband of tailored trousers was echoed in the occasional strand of white cotton thread that had been nonchalantly blown through the hair of the models – that was delicate and it was clever. As was the entire collection.