Ten biggest trends of the spring/summer 2017 season

Spring/Summer 2017 got off to a messy start – not least because some of the shows we were viewing were on-season autumn/winter ones. Turns out expounding the merits of an autumn collection being available for purchase – drum roll – in the autumn is hard when September in New York spells 30 degree heat and an even more heated pre-election political climate. That political subtext continued in London, as designers tried to come to terms with Brexit amid unrelenting waves of ruffles and uneven (disorderly?) hemlines. Milan, with typical Italian tenacity, sought to kill confusion with spectacle. And by the time we got to Paris, it was pops of fuchsia, Eighties throwbacks and kitten heels galore.

Here are the ten biggest trends of the spring/summer 2017 season.

1. BRALETTE

Miuccia Prada’s collection may have been about a return to “normal clothes”, semaphored in that opening knee-length black skirt, but she also threw in some left-field styling tips, namely: bralettes over buttoned-up shirts. (These cropped up again at Miu Miu, in the form of ruched Fifties bikini tops worn over utilitarian dresses.) Elsewhere Alexander Wang experimented with wrap-around styles, some sexier than others; Alexander McQueen showed studded leather ones with diaphanous dresses; Altuzarra gave them a retro makeover with tiny cherry prints and frills; Victoria Beckham paired bralettes with everything, including suits; and Céline offered crochet knitted bralettes (nipples clearly outlined) over shirts. A feisty take on officewear? Consider this glass ceiling ammunition.

bralettes

2. FUCHSIA

Think pink – but not sugared almond or dusty rose or sickly bubblegum. No, the Paris catwalks defiantly dictated fuchsia. It cropped up at Topshop on pointed stilettos, resurfaced at Bottega Veneta in the form of a hot pink leather mackintosh, then came out loud and proud at usually neutral Hermès, where it comprised a stunning tulle skirted evening gown. Valentino sealed the deal with its cape/dress hybrid, tight at the neck to elegant effect, and Balenciaga followed up by pairing it with purple Spandex. Do you dare?

fuchsia

3. DECONSTRUCTED SHIRTING

A trend that began in New York and didn’t let up. The best were oversized and loud at Marques’Almeida, one-shouldered and sexy at Victoria Beckham, naïve and eccentrically cut at Jacquemus. Monse, Tome and Alexander Wang also added spins on the trend, chopping them up and adding extra sleeves and collars and cuffs. Conclusion: if you don’t have a blue striped shirt in your wardrobe now, buy one, and do the buttons up wrong. Or wait until spring to buy the best.

shirting

4. KITTEN HEEL

A close call, as flatforms were a popular shape on the catwalk, but the kitten heels have it and here’s why: the French street style set are all wearing them. Theirs are classic black slingbacks from Prada or two-toned reissues from Chanel or tiny Céline pointed pumps. Regardless, we all know that where the French style set leads, we follow. At Dior they were branded; at Loewe they were funky; at Prada bordering on the ugly.

kitten-heel

5. EIGHTIES

Eighties excess was writ large this season, quite literally in the oversized silhouette that came to define many collections. Balenziaga’s Demna Gvasalia inserted whalebone rods across the shoulders of coats and jackets to create his hulking power shoulders, but it was the Joan Collins-style tops secured with vintage brooches and paired with Spandex leggings that made the biggest impression. Likewise at Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello imagined young girls going through their mothers’ old YSL and pilfering the bits they liked: velvet devoré draped and sweetheart neckline mini dresses, cropped smoking jackets and liquid gold lamé numbers. Gucci’s Eighties looks were more Princess Diana-oriented, while other designers such as Lorenzo Serafini at Philosophy and Isabel Marant merely borrowed elements: a Siouxsie Sioux belt here, a puffball sleeve there. Combine that with slogan T-shirts at Dior, vintage neon surfing sweaters at Alexander Wang and Debbie Gibson earrings just about everywhere, and we’re facing a full-on revival.

eighties

6. TULLE

Calling all wannabe ballerinas: tulle will be everywhere next spring. Molly Goddard has built a brand on the fabric, and presented it in tutus of stylish navy and brazen party pink, but it was interesting to map how other brands took on this trickiest of trimmings. At Dior it formed the feminine counterpart to logo branding; at Dries Van Noten it added a dark surface layer to oriental florals; at Rochas it was flouncy and unapologetic in sherbet tones and frothy layers.

tulle

7. SPORTSWEAR

Maria Grazia Chiuri chose sportswear for her debut at Dior, taking the theme of fencing and rendering it utterly chic, if a little prescriptive. Gucci’s nod, having been decisive in recent seasons, was more cursory for spring, as Alessandro Michele put Seventies running leggings underneath elaborate floral and flouncy ball gowns. It was Versace who had the most fun with the trend, studding anoraks and tracksuit tops with crystals and pouring models into go-faster leggings and drawstring-pulled nylon. And the prize for the most unexpectedly fabulous accessory? The Teva-style flatform sandals. Race you to the checkout.

sports

8. SKEWED SKIRT HEMLINES

The only consensus on hemlines? There is no consensus. Erratic, asymmetric and handkerchief hems ruled – quite literally at JW Anderson, where the designer constructed a dress out of Irish linen handkerchiefs. He continued that theme at Loewe, yanking them up and then down in uneven, offbeat lengths; and that was the case at Marni, too, where plissé pleating didn’t straighten matters out. At Louis Vuitton, sheer and solid panels vied for attention in gowns whose trains undulated whimsically; at Preen they were layered and unpredictable, as they were at Simone Rocha. And at Marques’Almeida they rose and fell according to the model’s mood. Where will yours take you?

skewed

9. MINI BAGS

Bags are tiny and multifarious for spring: just big enough for a lipstick at Valentino and worn slung across the body in twos or threes on gold chains; big enough to handle some wallet shrapnel at Hermès; comprising tiny pouches attached to the vintage snap-fastened frame bags at Céline; and attached to gold bracelet bangles at Chloé. Only one took the trend to its logical conclusion, however: Louis Vuitton turned its Petite Malle into an iPhone case.

mini

10. MODERN RUFFLES

So many ruffles, so little time – but this season they were presented in unusual fabrications. Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen offered some of the gutsiest, presenting them in black leather embroidered and printed with Scottish roses, while Erdem’s were perfectly frayed and linen; and Preen’s were haphazard and punky and occasionally sequined. Meanwhile at Jacquemus, Dries Van Noten and 3.1 Phillip Lim they were tiny and throat-constricting, with Victoriana overtones. You’ll be wearing them with cargo pants come spring.

ruffles

Thanks to: http: www.vogue.co.uk


Spring/Summer 2015 Pringle of Scotland

Massimo Nicosia wanted to incorporate plenty of Pringle of Scotland’s almost 200-year history into his Spring ’15 collection. He did it in a very contemporary, perhaps even futuristic way, continuing his experiments in 3-D printing, a technique he first employed (to much acclaim) for Fall. This time around, Nicosia created a nylon-powder chain mail. Assembled with panels of woven cotton and silk, it was used for airy, funky tops and a dress. “I wanted to combine the artificial and the natural,” Nicosia said of the 3-D printed looks. However, the high-tech textile wasn’t the designer’s only forward-thinking interpretation of Pringle’s signature knitwear. 

Leather embellishments on a diaphanous white dress mimicked a cardigan stitch—the tactile effect was slick, and it made more than a few of the audience to do a double take during its trip down the runway. Similarly, traditional pullovers were completely reimagined; in one instance, loosely woven threads were trapped inside a mesh casing. In another, fil coupe fragments in watery hues of green and violet were patched onto a roomy organdy jumper.

Water was a primary point of reference for Nicosia this season. Using Ophelia by Sir John Everett Millais and Pablo Picasso’s The Bathers as inspiration, he attempted to translate its lightness, transparency, and reflective properties into fabric. This resulted in a number of sheer silk tops with woven collars and sleeves. A few of them were covered in translucent turquoise triangles that protruded from the chest—they were meant to act as prisms. Elsewhere, silver beads were used sparingly on a honeycomb knit dress to provide just a hint of shimmer. That piece stood out for its serene simplicity.

Returning to Pringle’s heritage, Nicosia played with the idea of lingerie (the house manufactured undergarments back in the day), and turned out hyper-thin silk knit tanks and bodysuits. Pleated and leather-trimmed skirts felt a little stiff and lacked the liquidity of Nicosia’s refreshing dresses and tops, but on the whole, the designer produced an innovative—and versatile—Spring lineup that will appeal to loyal Pringle customers and beyond.

Shop the beautiful and elegant artwork of Pringle of Scotland Spring/Summer 2015 below:
 

 

 

 


Spring/Summer 2015 Marc Jacobs

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A BUBBLE GUM pink suburban house sits on pink gravel in the Park Lane Armoury. The audience are seated on banks of shagpile pink carpeted benches and each given a pair of Beats by Dr Dre headphones to wear for the show. Through the headphones a disembodied voice intones instructions: “Bring out the crooked smile and the backpack”; “Go into the house and take a shower”.

Is he talking to the Marc Jacobs army parading around the exterior of the house in military serge with their mandarin-collared jackets and oversized buttons? Is he controlling the girls with their shaggy black bobs and their satin-belted army style? Who is he?

Fashion shows as theatre is something Jacobs is a master of and possibly it distracts from seeing the clothes for what they are. Certainly some of the details like the huge resin buttons, the macramé lace inserts, the rich luxury of the wool and linen were of the highest quality. It didn’t look much like a spring/summer collection but the glitter-strapped sliders will no doubt be on everyone’s wish list any day now.

To become part of the Marc Jacobs army click below and shop Spring/Summer 2015 Marc Jacobs now:
 

 

 


Spring/Summer 2015 Burberry Prorsum

 

CHRISTOPHER BAILEY loves to riff on a topper. In previous seasons he’s reimagined the biker, the aviation jacket, the gritty parka, the trench – of course – and this season, he turned his hand to the indigo denim jacket, that forever young wardrobe staple that’s imbued with good times and optimism.

Serenaded with a live performance by James Bay, Malaika Firth opened the show (fellow Burberry girls, Kate Moss and Cara Delevingne sat front row, alongside Mario Testino) in a fitted wasp-waisted jean jacket with white sheepskin erupting out from under its little peplum.

Varying versions were in never-ending supply. Some were lined in sprouting white ostrich feathers, others were fiercely cropped, another was clad in dusty pink mink, or rendered in grass green suede with a glossy plastic collar and breast pockets. You’ll be spoilt for choice. It wasn’t only those jackets that conveyed a young-at-heart appeal, every luxury house seemingly has a hit sneaker right now and Christopher Bailey debuted Burberry’s all-white style, the “field” sneaker with a bright striped foamy sole.

Under those jackets were tulle dresses as light as candy floss that were whipped around bodies in sensual swathes of bandaged twists or pleats.

The British countryside comes alive in spring and there were nods to that feeling, which arrive with the first signs of summer, rooted in this collection. From those fluffy soft lambswool accents, to that particular shade of grass green, to the oversized butterfly prints and enlarged and abstracted bumble bee motifs and slogans that screamed “insects,” “flower,” and “sun” plastered over trench coats and printed dresses, and yes, all further enhanced by Bay’s The Clocks Go Forward, and the sunlight streaming through the Burberry tent in Hyde Park – as though right on cue.

To shop more Spring/Summer 2015 Burberry Prorsum click below: