HEDI SLIMANE can certainly draw a crowd. His stellar front row this evening was peppered with a host of musicians – Lenny Kravitz, Lou Doillon, Miles Kane, and Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem Christo of Daft Punk, Peter Doherty and Carl Barat of The Libertines, in addition to former Yves Saint Laurent muses, Catherine Deneuve and Betty Catroux.
His little black book that serves as the show invitation featured a catalogue of works by Robert Heinecken, the American artist best known for his appropriation of imagery – sometimes pornographic – from magazines and packaging. It’s an area that clearly interests Slimane, remember, last autumn/winter, it was John Baldessari another artist of the same ilk whose images featured on these pages.
There is something of that in Slimane – ok, less of the pornographic, perhaps (but there is no denying his girl has edge) – but the designer certainly has a knack of taking all the good bits of what’s gone before and re-proposing them as new ideas for now.
There were 55 looks here, and every one will be poured over by his coterie of fans. From the opening cherry printed one-shouldered fluttery dress – not entirely romantic when teamed with ‘cheap’ 10-denier tights – to the black leather coat, micro tan suede jacket with popper fastening (and a host of other cropped leather jackets, all updates to his hit fringed numbers that sold like hot cakes – despite the price tag circling a figure of £2500) to the camo army jackets, pinstripe blazers, denim hot pants and star print mini dresses. Girls – and women – will want it all. No, there wasn’t anything that we hadn’t ever seen before but it didn’t matter, because it all felt terrifically right again – yes, even those cheap tights – and isn’t it that that matters?