Spring/Summer 2016 Miu Miu

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First, those shoes: David Bowie-style platforms crafted from a lightning bolt patchwork of Python and metallics were about as high as the silver and gold-foiled enclaves that models walked between. On the other end of the height spectrum; the ballet pump. It’s back. Neat blush pink silk ballet pumps with sweet little bow tie, albeit Mrs Prada’s redux come bandaged at the bridge and ankle in black and white gingham ribbon, suggesting she might have had an injury. She could well have done. These girls were a sinister bunch; with hair centre parted and divided into pig tails and lips painted a blue running to deepest red ombré. It’s this dark and suspect undercurrent that makes the Miu Miu mashup so appealing.

Whose wardrobe had she been rifling through this time? Perhaps her mother’s or an older sister’s but it never gets too trad when she pops a tiara on her head (set to become the hair accoutrement of Spring  2016). Ruffled sheer organza bed jackets, robes and nighties were layered on top of checked midi length pencil skirts, gingham shirts and knitted tank tops. Maybe they had secretly been out all day and night and threw a nightie on top for it to look like they had spent all evening at home, or maybe it’s a veil that disguises what really lies beneath – she’s always up to something.

Coats were also a big theme – oversized mannish duster styles boasted stripy sporty collars, geo intarsia or a recurring argyle diamond motif, while colourful fox fur scarves fastened diagonally across the torso and raccoon tail charms dangled off the side. Miu Miu girls will find lots to get excited about.

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Autumn/Winter 2015-16 H&M

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London Fashion Week has Topshop Unique and Paris Fashion Week has H&M Studio: this was the third year the Scandinavian super giant took to the schedule to show off its wares. And don’t underestimate it – it has plans to beam you up next season.

This show we were transported to planet H&M for its own interpretation of the lunar landings – the Grand Palais transformed into a space-age, sci-fi hub – with tinfoil-like pods sitting along the catwalk (out from which later, men appeared and the cocktail party began) and many Barbarella moments to be had.

“We wanted to turn it up a bit this time,” said H&M’s head of design Ann-Sofie Johansson after the show, which saw Caroline de Maigret start proceedings in a silver all-in-one, making her way down the catwalk. Which had us wondering what the clothes that followed would be like.

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“Hard metallics, space shapes, interiors, quilting,” reeled off Johansson of her references, the space-ageness aspect turned down and translated into a functional-meets-sporty collection. Step forward a host of huge quilted bags and jackets; caps with every look; a moonboot-sneaker hybrid; lots of spangly sequins and silhouettes that riffed on the Sixties to Seventies.

“It’s been 50 years since the moon landing, the film Interstellar,” Johansson continued. “It’s about something glamorous and cool, effortless, quite practical – we’re from Sweden!”

She had a great model line-up to assist her fashion orbit: Kendall and Gigi and Edie, while Audrey Tautou and Mark Ronson looked on.

And why still Paris? “It’s still the ultimate fashion city,” she said. “It’s a great challenge and we love a challenge.”

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Golden Globes 2015

Sunday evening in Los Angeles was filled with standout red-carpet moments at the Golden Globe Awards, with Hollywood’s A-listers taking cues straight from the new spring collections. A cheery sunflower yellow palette dominated with actresses Naomi Watts in Gucci and Leslie Mann in Kaufmanfranco both opting for bright strapless column dresses, while a softer cornflower color blossomed on Jenna Dewan Tatum in Carolina Herrera and Elettra Wiedemann in Giulietta.

Naomi Watts in Gucci

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Metallics also proved to be popular, adding a much-needed touch of shine to the red carpet, and Julianne Moore led the pack in a custom Givenchy Haute Couture dress with floor-sweeping feathered fringe. Dakota Johnson shimmered in a Chanel Haute Couture slit dress, while actresses Reese Witherspoon in custom Calvin Klein Collection and Diane Kruger in Emilia Wickstead took a decidedly more demure approach to the idea of sparkle.

Reese Witherspoon in custom Calvin Klein

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Vivid shades of red were a favorite with fellow Girls stars Lena Dunham in Zac Posen and Allison Williams in Armani Privé, as they were with Viola Davis in Donna Karan Atelier and Taylor Schilling in Ralph Lauren Collection. The pleat work and draped hemlines on their dresses amped up the drama factor of the night.

Taylor Schilling in Ralph Lauren Collection

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Several starlets evoked a neo-Grecian spirit, including Emily Blunt in Michael Kors, Amy Adams in Versace, and Julia Louis-Dreyfus in Narciso Rodriguez. That silhouette was echoed on Amal Clooney, who sported a one-shoulder black dress from Dior Haute Couture; although with gloves (husband George said they were her own) and a coordinating bag, she gave the look her own personal spin recalling Old Hollywood glamour.​

Amy Adams in Versace

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But the real winners of the night were those who took chic and well-timed fashion risks. Among them was Claire Danes who showed how to step the bohemian look into the night with her Valentino dress; Keira Knightley whose tiny baby bump was cleverly hidden under her custom Chanel dress; Kate Hudson whose daring Versace look harked back to the safety-pinned sex appeal of Elizabeth Hurley, and Lorde whose custom Narciso Rodriguez pantsuit and bra top was a youthful breath of fresh air on the red carpet.

Keira Knightley  in Chanel

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