Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Michael Kors

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One can always rely on Michael Kors when it comes to real clothes for real women. This season, those ‘real’ women circled around the lives and wardrobes of Babe Paley, Carolyn Bessette Kennedy and the Duchess of Windsor. Whether you have the lifestyles of those or otherwise, there wasn’t one look that came down his runway that women won’t want.

Unless that is, you’re anti-fur. There was plenty of it; it was a statement from the get go. The opening look: an opulent, gargantuan golden and grey fox fur coat, just the ticket for New York’s arctic temperatures. Fur popped up everywhere, there were foxy collars and patch pockets upping the ante on oatmeal and camel grandpa cardigans, a laser mink coat and a sable stole accenting a khaki gabardine trench.

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You won’t find a better coat all season long than the nip-waisted camel version presented here, nor are you likely to find a better tweed suit – with a trumpet shaped skirt, no less, or, for that matter a toffee-coloured Aran knit, regardless of where else you look. Status knitwear is set to be a big idea for autumn and Kors had it in abundance.

But it wasn’t only daywear where he excelled, there were some sensational ideas for evening too, like the graphite caviar-beaded bias cut gown that Karlie Kloss sauntered along in, and elsewhere, a pyjama suit bedecked in twinkling crystals was a favourite, what woman, American or otherwise wouldn’t want to step out in that for the night?

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2015 CFDA Awards | 04/06/2015

  Womenswear Designer of the Year nominees:
Joseph Altuzarra, Altuzarra
Marc Jacobs
Michael Kors
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler
WINNER: Mary-Kate Olsen & Ashley Olsen, The Row

Menswear Designer of the Year nominees:
Thom Browne
Tim Coppens
WINNER: Tom Ford
Dao-Yi Chow & Maxwell Osborne, Public School
Marcus Wainwright & David Neville, Rag & Bone

Accessories Designer of the Year nominees:
Alexander Wang
WINNER: Tabitha Simmons
Mary-Kate Olsen & Ashley Olsen, The Row
Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez, Proenza Schouler
Irene Neuwirth 

Swarovski Award for Womenswear nominees:
WINNER: Rosie Assoulin
Dao-Yi Chow & Maxwell Osborne, Public School
Ryan Roche

Swarovski Award for Menswear nominees:
WINNER: Shayne Oliver, Hood by Air
Alex Orley, Matthew Orley & Samantha Orley, Orley
Shimon Ovadia & Ariel Ovadia, Ovadia & Sons

Swarovski Award for Accessory Design nominees:
Paul Andrew
Eva Zuckerman, Eva Fehren
WINNER: Rachel Mansur & Floriana Gavriel, Mansur Gavriel

Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award: Betsey Johnson

International Award: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino

The Founder’s Award in Honor of Eleanor Lambert: Mickey Drexler

The Media Award in Honor of Eugenia Sheppard: Instagram

Fashion Icon Award: Pharrell Williams

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It may have been a long night, but the CFDA Fashion Awards, held as usual at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall, weren’t boring. James Corden, of The Late Late Show fame and the evening’s first-time host, started things off by lampooning the industry to the tune of “to dream ‘The Impossible Dream,’” and got progressively more fearless as his bit went on, sticking it to Terry Richardson, who wasn’t in the audience to defend himself, and Kanye West, who was. “Kim and Kanye are both presenting this evening,” Corden said. “I should warn you that Kanye is going to interrupt both speeches to say that Beyoncé should have won them.”

West made no interruptions, but he did deliver one of his trademark soliloquies when it came time to introduce this year’s Fashion Icon, Pharrell Williams, near the end of the ceremony. “What’s up, CFDA? You know how [President] Obama brought out the angrier version of himself? I’m sort of like the angrier version of Pharrell.” After rapping the opening lines of “New Slaves,” he took the crowd to task for “completely destroying” his first collection, which, he reminded the audience, sold out—$6,000 shoes included. When he eventually did wind around to the subject of Williams, West said, “there would be no me, no A$AP [Rocky], without Pharrell being the nicer version of Obama.” Williams, displaying his own trademark niceness, had kind words for everyone from his jeweler Lorraine Schwartz to “the genius” Rei Kawakubo.

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In between, Chelsea Clinton took to the stage for a remembrance of Oscar de la Renta; the Italian actress Valeria Golino paid tribute to the Italian designers and International Award winners Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino; and Kelly Osbourne made an endearing speech about Betsey Johnson, the evening’s Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award winner. Yes, Johnson is 72 (she’s got two years on J.Crew’s Mickey Drexler, who picked up the Founder’s Award). And yes, she did do a cartwheel into a perfect split, jostling loose a few crystals from her bib necklace, before accepting her statuette.

To cap off the evening’s all-star lineup, The Row’s Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen accepted the Womenswear Designer of the Year prize, beating out Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, the Proenza Schouler duo, and Joseph Altuzarra. It fact, it was a good night for women designers, celebrity and otherwise, with Tabitha Simmons winning the Accessories Designer of the Year Award, and Rosie Assoulin and Mansur Gavriel’s Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel taking home the Swarovski prizes for womenswear and accessories, respectively. On the guys’ side of things, Swarovski winner Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air had almost as many letters stenciled on the back of his head—HBA—as he uttered words on stage. Tom Ford, who received the menswear award, and is a little more practiced at these things, remembered his 15 minutes at this venue last year. “I’m so glad to know that there is life after the Lifetime Achievement Award.”

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Top Coats

As the season’s blend together and trends fly by ever faster, so transitional pieces gain greater value. A case in point? The spring coat, fashioned in breezy wool or supple leather. Practical, wearable, efortlessly stylish: make it your new fashion failsafe.

Add a pop of colour to your coat to brighten up a rainy day – tangerine and lemon seen at Emilio Pucci and Michael Kors, or Dior and Miu Miu’s candy pink.

Lightweight leathers provide the perfect mid-season coat for the unpredictable British weather or take a styling cue from Miu Miu – roll up your sleeves to further the transitional season aesthetic.

 

DKNY and Michael Kors.

Roksanda and Emilio Pucci.

Christian Dior and Miu Miu.

 

 


The Best Accessory of the Day | 24/02/2015

The Fall 2015 season is under way. It might take you weeks to get caught up on all the shows, so here is a daily edit of the best accessories and details from the collections, as selected by Style.com’s fashion market director, Rachael Wang.

Mary Katrantzou
At Mary Katrantzou, the models floated by on chunky platforms wrapped in jewel-tone velvet, a girlish look complete with opaque ribbed tights and a Pepto-Bismol pink runway made of foam.

Ralph Lauren
A wide-brim felt fedora isn’t necessarily breaking news, but there’s something to be said for a really good hat. Ralph Lauren’s oversize teddy brown version is an instant classic and added the perfect bit of rugged panache to a very glamorous collection.

Michael Kors
Michael Kors nailed it with this top-handle handbag that reads like a mint-condition treasure you might find at an antique market. It’s equal parts luggage and doctor bag with enough hardware to make it special, the right warm caramel leather to make it versatile, and the perfect chubby size to make it practical for everyday.

Jason Wu
It’s still early days, but Fall 2015 is going to be a big season for fur. Jason Wu’s belted stole added just the right covetable punctuation to an otherwise simple head-to-toe olive look.​