Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were inspired by love in its purest form for their spring/summer 2015 couture show – and took us on a journey through time exploring this idea.
The collection danced between the modern – with poems appliquéd onto dresses in “pure elemental colours” – and the historical in the form of a sea-foam-billowing velvet dress with a ruffled chiffon collar.
And this is a combination that has very much become the language of the house. The duo manage confidently to walk the delicate line between fantasy and reality, their excellent use of artisan technique never more apparent than at couture when you can feel the handwork in the embroidery just at a glance.
And among this all came standout pieces in the shape of sheepskin refashioned as a corset and skirt ensemble, and a red velvet dress adorned with embroidered angel wings.
THE first show season since Temperley London combined its mainline and ALICE offerings and things are looking strong. That was a good idea – and you could see the balance between the two working all the better for now working as one. It felt fresh, young, clean, tight, modern.
“It was great to focus solely on an amazing show collection with more daywear, core pieces and loads of very versatile separates,” explained Temperley pre-show, singling out again “versatile” and “sexy” as key buzzwords.
“I was inspired by colour and print from very naughty Japanese paintings, woodblock prints, surreal sea creatures and lots of mixing of layers and kimono references with our looks both for day and evening,” she went on. And all of this was entirely evident. Cropped trench jackets, breezy skirts worn over trousers but whose effect was only really felt wafting away as it did at the back, gingham and plaid, pink and black stripes, dense embroideries, stiff A-line silhouettes.
Slouchy-boxy tailoring was given the Temperley edge with lace accents and despite all of these references and layers, it never felt heavy.
“The Temperley girl is more relaxed with a very sexy attitude,” the designer pointed out.
The mood suits her well.
Click below to shop Spring/Summer 2015 Temperley London looks: