Francesco Scognamiglio has been through his share of downs and ups lately. Losing a business partner, going it alone in a city notoriously difficult for fledgling independents, finding a new business partner. Tonight he was in the ascendant, with a collection of delicate, just a little bit dirty 1930s-inflected dresses. Long sleeves, bias-cut silk, below-the-knee hemlines, lots of boobies. Scognamiglio has never shied away from the nipple, and they were on proud display here. It’d be nice to see him address modesty-preserving lingerie at some point, but for the moment we’ll let the sheer factor slide. Why? Put simply, there was a lot of prettiness here, from baby-blue silk habotai numbers with almost ineffable lacy white embroideries to slightly more wholesome floral print styles overlaid with more of that exquisite lace. A white silk blouse worn with a stretchy black net skirt embroidered with shiny round silver studs roused the audience to spontaneous applause, a rare sound at this, or any, fashion week.
Best of all were the stretch tulle blouses worn with salopettes that formed a V over the breasts. That’s one way to deal with the see-through issue; they also showcased Scognamiglio’s skills as a tailor. The designer himself was most excited about the white tulle gown that Karmen Pedaru modeled at the end of the show. Appliquéd with lace and embroidered with crystals, it was a taste, he intimated, of a forthcoming couture collection.
To shop more Francesco Scognamiglio visit: www.francescoscognamiglio.com or click below to shop Spring/Summer 2015 Francesco Scognamiglio straight from the catwalk:
LOUCHE, loose and lounge-y was the mood that underpinned Thakoon’s spring/summer 2015 collection. It was comfortable and casual but exotic and elegant with it – the designer citing bohemia among his inspirations and playing that out to silk robe effect, fringed or punctuated with palms, shoulders slashed to make for more interesting sleeve (or rather non –sleeve) details. Thakoon celebrates 10 years on the New York Fashion Week schedule this year – and this was an understated but nice way to mark it.
To shop more Thakoon visit: www.thakoon.com or click below to shop the Spring/Summer 2015 Thakoon look:
When a house like Gucci taps into the Seventies it does it with a sense of conviction that’s unparalleled. The decade was a Gucci heyday and Frida Giannini, a Seventies girl at heart, must have delighted in the making of this spring collection.
It was convincing from the get-go: from the opening look – a narrow-shouldered button-through A-line skirt suit rendered in white leather – to the toffee-coloured suede coat dresses with stonking gold marine buttons; this collection zinged with confidence.
Blue denim – a Giannini favourite – was worked into swingy cropped culottes with exaggerated turn-ups and natty shirt dresses with maxi white shoelaces criss-crossing up the sleeves and across plunging necklines. Blousy boho dresses in subdued retro prints were topped with gilets bursting in deluxe patchworks, crafted from snakeskin, Mongolian and glossy goat hair.
The palette – and those furs and suedes leaned more towards autumn than summer – something that seems to be less of a trend and more of the norm in many of the collections to date. It’s now the job of the resort collections in which to flaunt summer colours and fabrics. These clothes will land in store in February, at a time when most of us aren’t thinking about shedding our coat – let alone much else.
Shorter hemlines did all point to one thing: the floor-skimming gown is officially over – suddenly, even the very idea of it seems outdated. Instead, Giannini proposed Oriental-style dresses with Mandarin collars and embroideries as precious as an antique piano shawl.
This collection had sass, glamour and commerciality in spades – and that’s not even counting the stacked heel suede boots and leather saddle bags in polished antique tan – everything in fact that women want from Gucci. Kate Moss and Charlotte Casiraghi (who is the new face of Gucci cosmetics – a new category debuting today with Pat McGrath as artistic director) applauded from the front row. Either one of them would look terrific in any and all of it.
To shop more Gucci visit: www.gucci.com or click below to shop the Spring/Summer 2015 Gucci collection:
MEMO to Wang: travelling into the deepest depths of Brooklyn on an icy Saturday night doesn’t put show-goers in the best of moods. It transpires that his show venue is so remote that it doesn’t even show up on Sat Nav. And so, in a not-so-fun game of the blind leading the blind, a convoy of town cars circle streets in search of Wang autumn/winter 2014. As the cars pulled up to the elusive Ship Way Avenue, passed 9pm, more than half an hour later than scheduled, a collective this-had-better-be-worth-it rippled through Wang’s particular warehouse of choice.
His first exits set the pace. With hair slicked down, combed tight to heads, models looked like sci fi man-mannequins from a digital age. A series of stiff tunic dresses with hard leather collars were decked out in moulded 3D storage compartments, each one stiff as a board, they were reminiscent of the Utensilo shiny plastic organisers by Vitra that you see nailed to walls in artsy homes and offices, filled with stationery-like pens and scissors and other nik-naks.
Bags took on a similar feel, which were more like belts slung over shoulders streaming in flask holders, camera and iPhone cases. A place for everything, Wang fans will be vying for one come August. Next, came tissue-thin leather tracksuit trousers teamed with T-shirts rendered in purple Astrakhan.
Yes the finale of heat-activated looks that changed colour before fashion spectators’ eyes, while whirling around on a conveyor belt were pretty impressive too, but by then thoughts had already turned to the snaking gridlocked queue out of here and the pilgrimage back to Manhattan.
To shop more Alexander Wang visit: www.alexanderwang.com or click below to shop the latest Autumn/Winter collection: