As Nicky Zimmermann noted backstage before her Spring show, some clothes you can “read” well enough hanging on a rack. These were not those clothes. Movement was paramount to Zimmermann’s pieces this season (her fourth since she started showing in New York), and delicate shapes reigned. They came in printed silks and wisteria- and peach-colored lace, and wafted out from under pin-striped utilitarian vests. Pitting masculine against feminine is familiar territory for Zimmermann, and here she teamed her cascading gowns with cargo pockets, and sent out suiting in icy blue sharkskin (a standout).
The designer had been looking at a dreamy 1970 tarot deck by illustrator David Palladini, but was wary of doing something that felt too literally vintage-derived. And so came techier touches, like a scuba tee bearing one of Palladini’s illustrations, and asymmetrical, tiered, or pleated skirts. But overall the message felt a little unclear, the punch of any one piece diluted slightly by the host of textures, colors, fabrics, and ideas that bookended it.