NYFW is wrapping this week, but the winter chill is just getting started.They’ve been feeling army coats for a while now, and it’s safe to say the olive green trend isn’t going anywhere. But as opposed to the classic army jacket, this Fall the military-inspired color is manifesting itself in chic longline coats and boyish bombers.
An olive green overcoat topped off a layered look during this season’s New York shows.
The Beckerman twins brought rebellious style to NYFW.
Olivia Palermo’s military-inspired coat upped its style quota with luxe fur and leather detailing.
Malaika Firth matched her accessories to her jacket during the F/W ’14 collections in New York.
Combat boots perfectly complemented an army green longline coat.
Jason Wu is a designer who courted a great crowd from the outset – you’ll recall Michelle Obama and a certain inauguration gown. It’s hard not to talk about him without making the reference – such was its career-defining moment, putting him more visibly on the map and plucking him from an overcrowded New York Fashion Week schedule. He continued to court his glamorous troops with Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin among his front row to add a little edge, which was the overall feel that followed in the collection.
These days Wu is moving away from the sensibility he started out with – less gowns fit for a modern-day ball, more utility gloss, a serious working wardrobe with an ultra-luxe overlay. His original Park Avenue princesses have become more fierce in their fashion taste with strong outerwear options (substantial and solid fur gilets and coats, lapel-unfurling jackets, impeccable tailoring as always) and slinky dresses accompanied by a decent flash of leg the mainstay of her wardrobe.
If there’s an event to go to now, she’s more modern in her approach to dressing for it – we could even (in this context and with those dress slits) throw the word risqué out there, though overall this was less the dazzling affair it has been in the past, more edited, streamlined and structured, a sense of the practical and every-day at its core. Which is no bad thing. Wu’s revision of his idea of glamour has simply now just opened him up to more avenues beside Park.
“To be desirable,” said Roland Mouret backstage before his show – that was the point of the collection. “The meaning of desire. I want women to feel like they want to steal the clothes from the hanger straight away.”
To this end – and with an imminent New York store opening – Mouret was going back to looking at what defined him. And joy and desire was what he concluded – his sculpted silhouettes here softened in colour-blocked pastels to make this a young and fresh collection that in plenty of white, primrose yellow, pink and lilac was the embodiment of spring/summer.
Bold floral appliqués blossomed on tote bags and skirts, dresses too – at the front and as little caped backs; elsewhere came hibiscus prints laser-cut into cotton mesh for jackets and splaying A-line skirts; asymmetric hems were accompanied by injections of grass green; shorts were out in strong force and cemented that youthful sensibility. It was refreshing.
It had all started in the fittings, explained Mouret. His women chiming in with the covetable buzzword and so leading him to develop the Mouret DNA which, while still obviously underpinning the collection today, took on a lighter and relaxed new note this time round. It was refreshing.
“I’m a practical person, a Virgo, so I’m always thinking about what women will live in, trying to anticipate their feelings – people will buy because they desire,” he summed up.
“Its effortless, it’s all about being effortless, did you see how the models just naturally put their hands in their pockets?” Paul Smith was quite taken by the aspirational army of easygoing urbanites that had walked the runway just seconds before.
There was nothing flash about this collection, there were no tricky details or smash, bang wallop summer prints and sprays of colour. Instead these clothes were utterly unapologetic in their elevated normcore appeal. Wear this stuff to live in, was the message. Think giant pockets, loose tailored shapes, khaki cotton trousers and easy, breezy sleeveless linen tops. The elegant, striped drop-waist, pleated dress, worn with super chic flat sandals and leather, across-the-body bags made for a wardrobe that chic, metropolitan commuters can feel comfortable in.
The bag featured in almost every look, from backpacks to relaxed folded totes, each came in muted palette (the grey was best) and in buttery leather.
“A modern girl can wear these clothes,” said Smith backstage, ” The fabrics were linen or cotton but there was a structure about them which gave them this bounce and they had life. She’s not looking for attention through her clothing. She’s happy in her own skin.”