SPORTSWEAR is having a moment in fashion – and especially American sportswear at that. So it’s funny – if not somewhat clever – that Michael Kors a designer who is something of a synonym with the genre, did an about turn and tapped into his more spring-pretty side, all flowers, frou, floss and fancifulness this season.
It was a collection that made you reconsider why you had all of sudden become excited about autumn – all those floral sundresses, midriffs on show; gingham dirndl skirts; cropped and tied little shirts; corsage details; and fresh crisp whites a pretty good wardrobe game-changer.
There were bursts of sunshine yellow throughout for sequin-strewn skirts and when it wasn’t, it was punches of navy, magenta blooms, sailor stripes or gentle neutrals. Ah, summer come back already.
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When Belgian born Stephanie Caulier visited a small knitting cafe in New York back in 2007 she was reminded of her childhood passion of knitting.
Growing up in a family surrounded by knitting and sewing, it was only natural that Stephanie developed an interest in knitwear. it has been a labour of love over the years ans from small beginnings of knitting for family and friends, the brand has now evolved into ‘I love Mr Mittens’. These year round collections are handmade with Peruvian cotton and wool in a variety of colours that will complaiment any wardrobe. The label has quickly transitioned to the stage of supplying stores in Belgiun and soon in Australia, where the label is based.
Donna Karan has always been interested in tribes; from those that dwell on the Great Plains of Africa to others more youth centric, in New York City.
Sometimes it can lean too literally one way or the other but this season seemed to strike a perfect balance between the two. Call it ethnic tech, an idea that even carried through to the accessories, where the designer juxtaposed tribal chokers with rubberised watches.
Macro and mini stripes (a recurring theme already here in New York) and stretchy knitted tube skirts (another idea that we have already seen a lot of) communicated a young energy, especially when they came topped with Aertex bomber jackets or tiered raffia peplums. Add a palette that Karan described as a “vibrant spring mosaic” and it’s all sounding piled-on-complicated, but it was one of her most considered collections in recent history.
The finale looks, a series of all-white ensembles: bouncy Aertex fit and flare dresses, sweatshirts and crisp poplin shirting breezed in like a palate cleanser, all anchored with some pretty cool kicks – sneakers (of course) in case you had to ask.
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Jason Wu spring/summer 2015 collection came with a nice cushion today – the designer justannounced the sale of a major stake in his label to investment company Interluxe. It’s a move that, aside from getting the front row talking as New York Fashion Week revved up, the designer had said would enable him to pursue ambitions of opening a flagship store and expanding into both e-commerce and handbags. It’s been an exciting and expansive five years for Wu since he became America’s fashion darling after dressing Michelle Obama – but rather than being a one-hit wonder on that front, he’s stayed strong and steady.
And steady is perhaps an apt description to use of his collection today – refined and sophisticated as always, it began in a sober palette of earthy neutrals on trademark wearable separates and smart shirtdresses. Wu doesn’t do fuss – you’ll never look at his clothes and be scared off by them. They’re elegant and welcoming to a wardrobe because they’re meant to be. He’s fashion-reliable in that sense, so the dots joined nicely when Wu cited the concept of beauty and the exploration of American sportswear heritage as his inspiration – which accounted for a classic simplicity throughout. It’s the same one that rings true with other brands of that bracket, and which will ring nicely with his new investors – theirs is a track record that includes raising the revenues at Michael Kors and Tory Burch.But even when Wu did add a splash of sass, he kept it on the safer side of things – on simple draped dresses or on tops teamed with trousers that made night-time glamour perfectly accessible for daytime pursuits.
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