And so to Peter Dundas and his final collection for Pucci. Since his appointment at the house in 2008, Dundas has energized the brand into a blazing, hyper-coloured fanfare of mega watt clothes for mega watt lifestyles. His unapologetic sense of glamour pitched at leggy starlets – many of them walking here this evening, from Eva Herzigova to his poster girls, Anja Rubik and Natasha Poly – has enlivened the scene no end.
This season, it was astrology and the powers the signs behold that triggered his creativity in what he called the Zodiac collection. Symbols for Aries, Libra, Sagittarius and Scorpio were embroidered in gold and scattered over velvet blazers, dramatic capes and hot pants. For his opening looks, he reprised Emilio Pucci’s black and white prints from the late Fifties and rendered them in swirling patterns created with monochrome micro sequins – with embroidered thigh high boots to match, naturally. Intarsia fox furs, flared trousers in crushed velvet, even, a pearl-fringed flapper dress was thrown into the hedonistic mix – it was everything that we’ve come to expect of a Pucci collection under Dundas’s direction – and then some.
He took his bow surrounded by his design team who emerged from backstage to warmly applaud him. Perhaps he won’t disappear from horizons for long: when it comes to what’s written in his own stars, if the rumors play into his horoscope he’s headed to Roberto Cavalli – which, sounds a lot like the very definition of the stars aligning.
THAT Seventies Show – is fast becoming the way to sum up Milan Fashion Week, from Gucci to Prada and onto Emilio Pucci.
“It’s always resonated with me. I think it’s a reaction,” said Pucci creative director Peter Dundas backstage by way of explanation. “I really wanted to do it last time so just thought I’m just going to do it.” Fair enough.
Whether the fashion forces of Milan got together to conspire in favour of the era or not, it’s on next summer’s agenda for sure – but it just depends on what kind of Seventies spirit you are.
“It’s my girls,” said Dundas, referring to Poppy Delevingne who was bejewelled and Pucci-fied out front. What he meant was that bohemian and carefree spirit – but situated in a contemporary context.
And this was very much a happy-hippy collection: plunge-neck crochet dresses embroidered with flowers, be-tasselled ponchos of the same effect, wispy butterfly-billowing maxi dresses, psychedelic shades and prints of Zap ice lolly optics, waistcoats, skinny suits, flares – tick, tick, tick for the Seventies. There were even those orange and brown colour clashes.
Halter necks, empire lines, gypsy tops and gilets – the repertoire continued as a mash-up of Fleetwood Mac played out – and then Naomi Campbell took a turn on the catwalk.
With all its colour and exotic psychedelic prints, Pucci is a brand that sits well in the Seventies – and will do in the second wave of the Noughties with so many trend boxes ticked this season.
Click below and shop the vibrant collection of Spring/Summer 2015 Emilio Pucci: