Top Campaigns Of S/S 2016

Although genuine innovation in fashion advertising remains rare, the need to attract the wandering eyes of today’s distracted, media-saturated consumers prompted some bold moves this season as brands sought to cut through the noise and differentiate themselves with unexpected, high-impact visual messaging.

From Louis Vuitton’s casting of the bubblegum-pink-haired protagonist of Final Fantasy XIII, cannily co-opting her multi-million-strong fanbase, to J.W. Anderson’s use of a photograph that was literally postage stamp-sized, brands challenged convention with their approaches. 

The most successful campaigns acted as springboards for digital conversations. At GucciGlen Luchford shot another fashion film to accompany his offbeat tableaux shot in Berlin, while Marc Jacobs waded into the hot topic of gender politics by casting Lana Wachowski and a contestant from RuPaul’s drag race in his campaign. The message was abundantly clear: print campaigns may live in magazines, but the digital buzz they create is the real currency.

My Top 5 Campaign of S/S 2016 thanks to the Business of Fashion:

1. Valentino

— Starring Alice Metza, Cameron Traiber, Greta Varlese, Kirin Dejonckheere and Tami Williams by Steve McCurry

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The East African savanna forms the backdrop for Valentino’s latest collection. Creative directors Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri asked National Geographic legend Steve McCurry — known for his world-famous portrait “The Afghan Girl” — to turn his lens on Kenya’s Amboseli National Park as models wearing tribal inflected ready-to-wear posed under acacias and stood sentinel among leaping Masai tribespeople. The collection had sparked controversy in October after the designers were accused of cultural appropriation through the use of predominantly white models sporting cornrows and tribal-inspired garments. Simultaneously, however, it reminds us of the long-standing dialogue between fashion and the continent, which goes back as far as Saint Laurent’s animal prints in the 1960s, Iman’s arrival on the catwalk in the 1980s and Demi Moore standing next to a giraffe on the cover of the April 2010 issue of US Harper’s Bazaar.

2. Balmain

— Starring Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford and Naomi Campbellby Steven Klein

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Creative director Olivier Rousteing has bolstered the ranks of his Balmain army, recruiting three original supers who don’t need a surname. Dismissing the Kardashian clan but none of the trademark gloss, Claudia, Cindy and Naomi are captured in monochrome by Steven Klein with creative direction from Pascal Dangin. Rousteing released the images through his personal Instagram consisting of 2.2 million followers with the hashtag #thisisHISTORY, making a point that the campaign would be the first chapter in the brands’ efforts to go back to its roots.

3. Gucci

— Starring Polina Oganicheva, Peyton Knight, Elizabeth Moore, Nicole Atieno, Mia Gruenwald, Anka Kurydina, Viola Podkopaeva, Jacob Hugo Goldhoorn, Timothy Dibble, Arnis Cievala and Anton Tofgart by Glen Luchford

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How do you top a campaign that was heralded as last season’s very best? Do it again in Berlin was creative director Alessandro Michele’s answer as he faces the pressure to build on the momentum he gained by reviving the brand last year. Shot once again by Glen Luchford, the most alluring scene from the series is a party on a Berlin rooftop, suffused in langour and glamour. As the sun sets and the eccentric characters sashay about, the spectator is sucked into a 1970s fantasy world, desperate for an invite. Elsewhere in the campaign, night owls take the subway and hang out in club toilets; one even goes skateboarding with a peacock under her arm. Sumptuous, surreal and effortlessly cool, it’s another winner from the Italian house whose star is very much in the ascendant.

4. Louis Vuitton

— Starring Lightening by Tetsuya Nomura with visual works by Square Enix

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Louis Vuitton has taken the bold step of casting a CGI heroine in its latest campaign. By including Lightening from Final Fantasy XIII, the French brand ventures into the virtual world of anime and invites a double-take as the eye is drawn to the suspiciously unblemished, pink-haired model holding up a Petit-Malle bag. The brand worked in collaboration with character designer Tetsuya Nomura and Japanese video game developer Square Enix on the campaign, which also features Jaden Smith among other Vuitton vixens, shot by Bruce Weber.

5. Céline

— Starring Vera van Erp, Regitze Christensen and Karly Loyce by Juergen Teller

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Creative director Phoebe Philo once again called on Juergen Teller for the latest Céline campaign. Starring new faces Vera van Erp and Regitze Christensen along with last season’s Karly Loyce, the models were cut out and set against coloured backdrops creating a scrap-book like collage. Following on from her Spring/Summer 2016 collection, when Philo was inspired by everything the Céline woman might need for a year-long trip, the campaign underscores the evolution of who that woman is. After that show, Philo said she imagined the Céline woman leaving the city, putting her feet in the sand, being in nature. The confident, unselfconscious women of this campaign, clothed in softer, freer lines than the stark minimalism once synonymous with Céline, appear ready to do just that.

What is your favourite campaign of Spring/Summer 2016?

 Let me know in the comments section below…


Autumn/Winter 2015-16 Valentino

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The headline at Valentino show – or rather the Instagram moment that has become the staple of many a show this season – was Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson closing the show, reprising their Zoolander roles. This was a real (but also fantasy) catwalk-off. The crowd went wild, the phones came out and fingers couldn’t snap and type fast enough as a fashion fiction became reality and made everyone’s day in the process.

But back to the actual Valentino show – the clothes, the catwalk. Such is the spell that Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have cast since they landed at the helm of the label, there’s a certain amount you can already predict about what you’ll see fluttering down their catwalk before it’s even begun. What you can’t predict is what level of pretty it’ll be or which chapter of the fairytale they’ll delve into. This pair is known for managing to make the pretty even prettier, just when you thought it wasn’t possible.

It was Emilie Louise Floge, the companion of Gustav Klimt, and Celia Birtwell, designer and wife of Ossie Clark that helped them to explore “sensuality and independence”.

It began with Op Art monochrome stripes on their signature medieval fairytale shapes – caped dresses, tunics as well as oversized slouchy jumpers and skirts (a more wearable nod from their pre-collection efforts). It calmly moved onto adding decorative elegance through lace in shades of turquoise, peach and red, building the romance, the story, as it went.

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Valentino Street-Style | 02/06/2015

How Valentino Became an Unlikely Street-Style Phenomenon:

Think of the house of Valentino and the street-style circus—and its magpie-like, attention-grabbing stars—do not immediately spring to mind. But over the past few years, under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the label that Mr. Garavani built atop full-throttle, red-carpet glamour has become a mainstay of the professionally lensed, the Anna Dello Russos and Miroslava Dumas of the world. How did it happen?

 “Valentino is a couture brand,” says Piccioli, “and that’s something that we’ve really wanted to keep from the very beginning in our contemporary world. We’re concentrating on an effortless elegance, so it’s like wearing couture with a street attitude.” Case in point: the olive drab and camo jackets first spotted at their Spring ’14 men’s outing, embellished to the hilt with couture-grade butterflies and now ubiquitous on the backs of well-heeled menswear types. Think even of the designers’ decision to team their haute couture gowns with flats. Piccioli adds: “There are no codes—it’s a more individual attitude.” Women as wide-ranging as Dello Russo and Veronika Heilbrunner are regularly spotted in Valentino’s celestial frocks, embellished skirts, and lacy minis. Even sans logos, they’re instantly identifiable pieces, thanks in part to a level of craftsmanship the uninitiated could spot from space. “We think that now the designer has to find a new balance,” Chiuri offers. “Women now want something special, but to use every day—not only for special occasions.”

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That idea comes to vivid life with Valentino’s accessories, the department where Piccioli and Chiuri cut their teeth for more than a decade before ascending to their current roles. It’s a category that the aspirational customer can get in on—and is chomping at the bit to, as evidenced by the now-iconic Rockstud shoe, first introduced in 2010 and still selling out to this day. The brand’s sales have more than doubled since that year. 2014 saw the brand’s revenues up by 36 percent, with half of sales made up by accessories. “When we started, we were obsessed—and are also obsessed now—to create a style,” says Chiuri. “We never think to do something only for one season. We want to speak a language that speaks about style, and that becomes timeless. Our inspiration is to create something that you want to have with you for your life, forever. I think that if you are a designer, this is what you really want. Rockstud, camouflage—everything we’re doing is because we want to create a world, elements that you recognize as the Valentino style.” With a précis like that, Valentino is well on its way to becoming more than just a bastion of red-carpet dressing, but a brand with real-world, want-it-now appeal for the long haul.


Spring/Summer 2015 Valentino Couture

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Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were inspired by love in its purest form for their spring/summer 2015 couture show – and took us on a journey through time exploring this idea.

The collection danced between the modern – with poems appliquéd onto dresses in “pure elemental colours” – and the historical in the form of a sea-foam-billowing velvet dress with a ruffled chiffon collar.

And this is a combination that has very much become the language of the house. The duo manage confidently to walk the delicate line between fantasy and reality, their excellent use of artisan technique never more apparent than at couture when you can feel the handwork in the embroidery just at a glance.

And among this all came standout pieces in the shape of sheepskin refashioned as a corset and skirt ensemble, and a red velvet dress adorned with embroidered angel wings.

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