GIAMBATTISTA VALLI’s client does not have a day life, or if she does he has no interest in clothing her for it in couture. He’s quite a pragmatic guy and he’s probably fine with her wearing a T-shirt and J Brand jeans during the day – possibly with one of his Moncler coats – but at night she’s all his.
His show today was womanly and masterful, sticking in general to the shapes that he favours – a shell top, a swollen-bellied skirt, a full length coat to which he added a high embroidered cummerbund-style waist.
Frills were everywhere, often defining the shoulders and sleeves, and motifs from the natural world were there in many of his gowns – a tree of life jacquard, an iridescent rose print, silk embroidered flowers and embroidered corsets of petals.
It appeared to be less aimed at the nightclub-dancing social butterfly he is often associated with, but then they like him have grown up together.
His sugar almond finales have become a kind of tradition in their feminine grandeur and this one didn’t disappoint.
VIKTOR & ROLF got bitten by the sportswear bug for their spring/summer 2015 collection today, unfamiliar territory for the duo who have a penchant for performance wares. Well, these were performance wares of a different variety – less froth and drama, more streamlined scuba shorts and leggings, jogging bottoms and little vests.
But they came with a side of extravagance and the unexpected – voluminous, inflated, gathered and twisted floral tops that used the torso as a canvas to create hugely contrasting shapes to the sleek nature of what was below. Not exactly practical for a workout.
These tops were draped and pulled and fashioned, entwined and tucked and there came a continuation of the sports note by the use of mesh on some of them too.
Sportswear has found itself providing the fashion fuel for many a designer collection these past few seasons so their dabbling into it now couldn’t help but feel a little late.
As the season’s blend together and trends fly by ever faster, so transitional pieces gain greater value. A case in point? The spring coat, fashioned in breezy wool or supple leather. Practical, wearable, efortlessly stylish: make it your new fashion failsafe.
Add a pop of colour to your coat to brighten up a rainy day – tangerine and lemon seen at Emilio Pucci and Michael Kors, or Dior and Miu Miu’s candy pink.
Lightweight leathers provide the perfect mid-season coat for the unpredictable British weather or take a styling cue from Miu Miu – roll up your sleeves to further the transitional season aesthetic.