Spring/Summer 2015 Haider Ackermann

WAKING up in a Haider Ackermann dream must be a wonderful place to be – we stepped inside and caught a glimpse of it for the designer’s spring/summer 2015 collection.

It’s serene, and peaceful, controlled and light as air, which is exactly how the girls took to the catwalk this morning in a palette that wavered from white to pink to lilac but so gently that you would hardly tell.

Everything has a fluidity in the hands of Ackermann – the clothes appear in a perfect state of undress, belted as they are, slouched and ruched at the pocket or at the elbow. Here we got night dress styles – entirely in keeping with our dreamscape scenario – and dressing gown coats, gliding lace slips, plunge-front tuxedos, bare backs framed and exposed. Peplums were created through layers of ruffles that peaked out beneath his signature investment jackets – cinched and belted as always – and sheer chiffon sleeves slid off over hands for oversized, surreal effect.

This was one of Ackermann’s softest and most wistful collections yet but in that same breath he brought a shorter, younger silhouette and it was sharp through its focus, sexy in its subtlety.

Click below to shop Spring/Summer 2015 Haider Ackermann:
 

 

 


Spring/Summer 2015 Erdem

Had Erdem been leafing through the pages of Joseph Conrad’s A Heart of Darkness? The show set was a huge, imposing forest and underneath the verdant vines Erdem proved that when it comes to creating clothes that women long to wear, he’s anything but green.

Erdem has been riffing on the sweet spot between beauty and darkness for a few seasons now and for spring / summer 15 he found the balance. Floor length gowns were the form here, tiered, sheer, richly embroidered with botanics, with just a smattering of separates. A tweed sleeveless top was best, styled in a contemporary way with a delicate bag shaped like a book slung across the body. The amount of embroidery was vast and any hint of OTT pomp was diluted with boyish flat shoes. The leaf and branch stitch work sat against windows of period conservatories stitched on to dresses, that and the high Victorian collars brought a classic, historic appeal to a collection that felt very right for now.

To shop Erdem visit: www.erdem.com or click below to shop the beautiful florals of Spring/Summer 2015 Erdem:

 


Spring/Summer 2015 Chloe

THE winning ideas here were to be found in Clare Waight Keller’s series of butter soft suede shorts and shirt combos (in a perfect shade of toffee) and elsewhere in her offering of indigo denim looks, worked into cropped straight-leg jeans, minis, and maxi skirts with cargo pockets. It lent an urban, utilitarian edge to this house and ticked many of the emerging spring trends.

But for better or worse, bohemia is never far from the mood board. Those balloon sleeve blouses, breezy kaftans and romantic cheesecloth dresses suspended from camisole straps and edged in pretty crochet will no doubt appeal to Ibiza types, while full-length goddess gowns anchored with empire line metal work will be just the ticket for a summer wedding.

Today, Clare Waight Keller dedicated her collection to Chloe’s founding designer, Gaby Aghion, who sadly passed away yesterday at her home in Paris age 93.

To shop more Chloe visit: www.chloe.com or click below to shop Spring/Summer 2015 Chloe look:
 

 

 


Spring/Summer 2015 Balenciaga

IT wasn’t shaping up to be a particularly starry front row, until just before the lights went down and Kim, Kanye and baby North (in a Balenciaga full look of course) took their front row seats.

Isn’t she cute! Isn’t she well behaved? The rest of the room went gaga for baby North momentarily and then an intensity as bright as the paparazzi bulbs snapping her image followed. And then it was time to turn our attention to the clothes.

Alexander Wang’s love of modernism, black, and a glossy finish was out in full effect (albeit it with hint at Cristobel Balenciaga’s legacy) as an army of girls stormed down the runway. The tailored fluidity of floor-length overcoats whispered archive – think a Balenciaga balloon jacket seen through a Matrix movie prism, and the precise cut (the black jumpsuits with embellished pockets were particularly articulate) reminded us of the skill of the house, but the tone was (of course) sporty, there was no romance here.

Rather than the sumptuous gowns of Balenciaga way back when, this show offered a modern girl fresh take on cocktail dressing, and sporty looks to go luxe level clubbing in. Jumpsuits, sheer-sleeved short suits and halter necklines, and mesh – tons of mesh and techy fabrics.

The final pastel section softened the show. And Kim’s favourite look? A white mesh top with a band of crystals across the d├ęcolletage seemed to pique her interest, in fact you could see her in most of what was on show here.

And what about North? Even she clapped at the end (with the help of her doting father of course).

To shop more Balenciaga visit: www.balenciaga.com or click below to shop the Spring/Summer 2015 Balenciaga look: