IN Paris, you’ll find ideas executed to the extreme. Comme des Garçons collection an expression of love, played out to the most vivid and intense effect.
Everything was red, and everything came charged with roses and ribbons, scrunchies and rosettes, spliced heart helmets on heads. Rather than this being a romantic take on love, it felt enraged and aggressive – which are both equally apt and relevant attributes when it comes to the emotion.
Heart shapes were torn apart and pieced back together, represented as the organ for a skirt that seemed to pump around its wearer; and depicted as the universal hallmark symbol for prettier Valentine’s motifs of shape-pushing experimentation.
It was bonkers in that Comme way – again, an exploration into imagination and feeling, wider concepts (as we expect) than merely the practicality of wearing clothes.
Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli were inspired by love in its purest form for their spring/summer 2015 couture show – and took us on a journey through time exploring this idea.
The collection danced between the modern – with poems appliquéd onto dresses in “pure elemental colours” – and the historical in the form of a sea-foam-billowing velvet dress with a ruffled chiffon collar.
And this is a combination that has very much become the language of the house. The duo manage confidently to walk the delicate line between fantasy and reality, their excellent use of artisan technique never more apparent than at couture when you can feel the handwork in the embroidery just at a glance.
And among this all came standout pieces in the shape of sheepskin refashioned as a corset and skirt ensemble, and a red velvet dress adorned with embroidered angel wings.