David Koma unveiled his debut collection for Thierry Mugler (at which he was appointed artistic director at the end of last year but in which he began in the role the beginning of 2014) this June as part of the bi-seasonal run of pre-collections. It’s a fashion fit. Both brands have a pre-occupation with body-conscious silhouettes and women with a strong sense of power – an attribute Koma will always be drawn to.
For his own eponymous collection though, he let that slip a little – purposefully we might add – for something softer, supple and sleek. Body-skimming, there were still juts and angles to contend with but so too were there sheer skirts below asymmetric necklines, cut-outs, spiral-cut tops, panels of lemon gems and shorts-based tailoring. It was less harsh and austere than we have seen from him before. Later in the month we’ll see if the same can be said for Thierry Mugler’s debut mainline collection.