Street Style Trends To Watch

London’s unique brand of eclectic street style is growing up – we’re now opting into logo dressing, full-look heritage checks and natural textures. These are the trends to watch right now.

1. Mood: New heritage

Big, baggy and checked? Check. The new trouser and coat shapes to covet now hint at British heritage classics, with a fashion-forward, oversized spin.

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2. Accessories: Fishnet tights

As the LFW hub once again returned to the heart of Soho, it felt fitting to step into racy hosiery. Wear yours under jeans, with a dinky heel.

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3. Coat: The guilded military peacoat

Gold trims and polished double-breasted cuts elevate the handsome style classic into a new season hero piece. Why is it a fashion editor’s favourite? A clever update on the all-black ensemble will always be a hit.peacoat

4. Shoes: The metallic loafer

Flashes of glam rock shimmer and shine have rolled-over from New York Fashion Week onto the streets of London. What they wore them with? Rigid denim and clashing, glittery socks.

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5. Texture: Raw

While we’re falling for magpie accessories – the full look is about super-natural linen and raw cotton. What we want now? Loewe’s utility boiler suit.

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6. Game Changer: Clashing logos

Top marks go to anyone who’s already invested in Louis Vuitton’s monogram tote, a straight-off-the-catwalk Burberry check handbag, Vetements tee, or Gucci belt. The next step is how you wear your logos. Stay ahead of the pack and wear them all at once, or with tongue-in-cheek bohemian layers.

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The Babydoll Dress

The babydoll dress is swinging back into action, which means it’s going to be a season of pins on parade. It’s been some years since the style was hanging on the rails, let alone in our wardrobes. Fashion went androgynous, it went normcore and then it went and had a love affair with the Seventies and suddenly romance and ethereal shapes wafted back into the minds of designers and both waistlines and hemlines were on the rise.

They are again.

For the pre-autumn/winter 2015 season, Dior, JW Anderson, Valentino, Chloe, Calvin Klein Collection all put forward the case for the dress, which although based on Fifties nightwear and a doll’s style of dress, manages to be one part smart (the structured high neck or yoke-based point from which the trapeze silhouette falls) to one part easy (that’s a swingy skirt for you). And it’s something that looks set to stick around for the pre-spring/summer 2016 season too – Mary Katrantzou, Chanel, Prada and Saint Laurent have all done a version.

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And the great thing about them is that you don’t have to think too much about what you wear with them – they will take centre stage when it comes to the outfit. But you do need to make sure you get it right, or suddenly the babydoll will look all wrong.

The secret lies in a great coat – a fuzzy Louis Vuitton number from the autumn/winter 2015 collections is the way to aim; or if wearing in the last of those summer days, then a faithful leather jacket will work – and tap into the garment’s original mod appeal.

When it comes to shoes, flat simple sandals will fit the bill to see you out for the next month but then you need to switch to boots – ankle will be best, or a brogue. Knee-high or more will feel too retro to a decade we’re starting to say goodbye to (the Seventies in favour of the Eighties). A flat shoe or boot feels modern and mod and keeps the whole look youthful, which is entirely its intention. But that doesn’t mean it can’t look smart. Opt for more structured shapes, detail on yokes and collars, long sleeves and cuffs for this.

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The Cropped Flare

The cropped flare is something of a conundrum.

We’re used to our faithful skinny favourites – usually bunching at the ankles, snaking into the bottom of a boot or flashing a little ankle bone if we’re really lucky. Or we’re used to a billowy defiant flare that spills over the front of our shoes. Or something very purposefully chopped off and short. So the cropped flare – two specific attributes combined in one trouser – is something quite new to get our heads around. So let’s make a start because flower-pot trousers are on the autumn/winter 2015 horizon – and once mastered add a whole new dimension to trouser-wearing opportunities.

PROS:

They’re ideal mid-season dressing. Not too long, not too short; just right.

Marques’ Almeida began introducing them two seasons ago amid their grunge-denim offerings so you’ll find your eye has already adjusted to the shape – the street style set certainly has.

They make for a great neat silhouette, a new take on figure-hugging, as it were, all agile and svelte.

CONS:

They might come with a slight style allegiance to the Bay City Rollers. But that’s OK, so long as you don’t wear with plaid.

A game of proportion building, cropped trousers mean you should stay away from wearing a very cropped jacket and avoid anything mid-length too. Wear something either fitted to the waist, or to the top of the thigh.

What shoes to wear? There are, surprisingly, a lot of options depending on what look you’re going for. Converse will keep it Seventies-skater-cool, for example. But we’re opting for ankle boots as at Louis Vuitton. A sling-back sandal or mule will also work. Something that ties around the ankle will look especially nice. Stompier styles of shoe won’t work so well. Remember, it’s a neat silhouette, so keep it that way.

So the question is: will you be wearing the cropped flare?

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Valentino Street-Style | 02/06/2015

How Valentino Became an Unlikely Street-Style Phenomenon:

Think of the house of Valentino and the street-style circus—and its magpie-like, attention-grabbing stars—do not immediately spring to mind. But over the past few years, under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the label that Mr. Garavani built atop full-throttle, red-carpet glamour has become a mainstay of the professionally lensed, the Anna Dello Russos and Miroslava Dumas of the world. How did it happen?

 “Valentino is a couture brand,” says Piccioli, “and that’s something that we’ve really wanted to keep from the very beginning in our contemporary world. We’re concentrating on an effortless elegance, so it’s like wearing couture with a street attitude.” Case in point: the olive drab and camo jackets first spotted at their Spring ’14 men’s outing, embellished to the hilt with couture-grade butterflies and now ubiquitous on the backs of well-heeled menswear types. Think even of the designers’ decision to team their haute couture gowns with flats. Piccioli adds: “There are no codes—it’s a more individual attitude.” Women as wide-ranging as Dello Russo and Veronika Heilbrunner are regularly spotted in Valentino’s celestial frocks, embellished skirts, and lacy minis. Even sans logos, they’re instantly identifiable pieces, thanks in part to a level of craftsmanship the uninitiated could spot from space. “We think that now the designer has to find a new balance,” Chiuri offers. “Women now want something special, but to use every day—not only for special occasions.”

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That idea comes to vivid life with Valentino’s accessories, the department where Piccioli and Chiuri cut their teeth for more than a decade before ascending to their current roles. It’s a category that the aspirational customer can get in on—and is chomping at the bit to, as evidenced by the now-iconic Rockstud shoe, first introduced in 2010 and still selling out to this day. The brand’s sales have more than doubled since that year. 2014 saw the brand’s revenues up by 36 percent, with half of sales made up by accessories. “When we started, we were obsessed—and are also obsessed now—to create a style,” says Chiuri. “We never think to do something only for one season. We want to speak a language that speaks about style, and that becomes timeless. Our inspiration is to create something that you want to have with you for your life, forever. I think that if you are a designer, this is what you really want. Rockstud, camouflage—everything we’re doing is because we want to create a world, elements that you recognize as the Valentino style.” With a précis like that, Valentino is well on its way to becoming more than just a bastion of red-carpet dressing, but a brand with real-world, want-it-now appeal for the long haul.