Clear out your misconceptions that the pussy-bow blouse belonged only to the Thatcher era, teamed neatly with a prim pencil skirt. No longer simply a byword for ladylike, it’s been rekindled as an emblem of bohemia for the autumn/winter 2015 season – a movement spearheaded on the Gucci catwalk, when Alessandro Michele made romance and whimsy relevant again.
Think the Bloomsbury group; carefree and liberated over its previous confrontational, stiff and buttoned-up incarnations (which came teamed with tweed and traditionally “heritage” looks circa 2004 and 2005). The new season suggests sheer and lace is the way forward, flamboyance combined with the ethereal.
This new rendition of the pussy-bow blouse will bring a lightness and ease to your standard jeans, making even the tomboys among us embrace a dose of femininity. And that was the point at Gucci. But where you can, you should opt for wide-leg trouser or a midi-pleated skirt – because this makes quite the difference. And those aforementioned pencil skirts should stay right out of sight – they simply don’t allow for wafting into the new season, nor do they hint at whiling away the afternoon reading a book in the quiet corner of a library.
Ease yourself in gently with a skinny scarf and get used to having a knot at your neck – Chloe, Bottega Veneta, Paul Smith and Haider Ackermann showed you how. And if a blouse just isn’t your go-to garment, then opt instead for one of the season’s folkloric autumn dresses, their penchant to unravel at the throat with slinky little laces are most alluring.
Some things are made to go together; gin and tonic, strawberries and cream, salt and vinegar, say, so too Anthony Vaccarello and Versace. He – the master of the slit and slashed minidress and pioneer of all-out sex appeal often delivered on leggy best friend, Anja Rubik; and Versus, the sidekick of Versace, the Italian house that practically invented sex – are a match made in heaven.
Half of the battle of a house producing a winning collection is in the hiring of a designer who just “gets it” and the hiring of the Belgian (of Italian descent) here is not much short of genius. Bravo to whoever cooked up that contract. One can only imagine the fun Vaccarello must have had mining the archives. It must have felt like all his birthdays and Christmases had come at once. Gold! Medusa heads! Bondage strapping! Safety pin dresses! Yes! Yes! Yes! Yes!
All of that was whipped up tonight (even, including BFF Rubik). There were so many brilliant looks here today and here’s the crux of it, and really, where others before him have perhaps failed; he kept it simple. Firstly, it was almost all black with gold accents, well, why over-complicate matters when that will do just nicely? It wasn’t all thigh skimming miniskirts, there were some great low-slung tailored trousers partnered up with bondage-backed bodysuits boasting gold chokers as halter necks, as delicate as fine jewellery, and elsewhere, unbuttoned black silk shirts (sometimes, combining the two into a fierce jumpsuit). He rendered the medusa head into super desirable belts, and re-proposed the safety pin dress into a neat proposition for now.
And even better news: it’s all available to buy online now. One question, what are you still doing reading this?
You can take a Brit abroad but you can’t take the Brit out of them once there. Stuart Vevers continued with his youthful reinvention of Coach – the traditional American brand at which he was installed as executive creative director last year – with his spring/summer 2015 collection. A collaboration with Californian artist Gary Baseman to make fun little creatures was testament to that as were his choices of Americana to plunder: sub-cultures, skate and surf (ever the popular right now) combined with the spirit of New York. He said it was a celebration of “beautiful oddness” and that’s where that brilliant and irreverent Brit wit stepped in for an overhaul that won’t necessarily strike a chord with a traditional Coach customer of seasons past but will put it right in front of the noses of a new generation who won’t be able to get enough of these characterful and cool pieces: shaggy, pastel jackets; critter-knits; satchels and clogs; and long lean flare silhouettes and short sharp miniskirts.
The flowers are blooming, the sun is shining—it’s safe to say that spring is really here. With hot days on the horizon, it’s time to invest in staple pieces that will work just as well for weekend jaunts as they do at the office. Up next on our list: palazzo pants. The forgiving, easy-to-wear trousers are known for their waist-whittling fit and bold colours. They’re the perfect piece to add some liveliness to your wardrobe this spring when you’re sick of jeans.
An impressionist-inspired pair of palazzo pants got an edgy update with a leather motorcycle jacket and sneakers.
Michelle Elie’s sheer palazzo pants were a breezy choice for the SS ’15 shows in Paris.