How does the Temperley girl – so fond of floaty silks and embroidered cotton – do winter? In pretty much the same way she does summer, is the answer, with the addition of a louche skinny silk scarf or oversized luxurious coat. The nomadic feel so integral to the brand’s aesthetic manifested itself in heavy jacquards in a range of animal prints, and in full-length colourful intarsia knits boasting geometric patterns. Bold floral embroidery on velvet and sheer chiffon felt opulent but easy, and wrap-front trousers and backless jumpsuits provided an elegant alternative to dresses for evening. From the initial years of the Temperley brand, today’s offering exemplifies not only how far the house has come but also the personal journey of the woman behind it all.
Backstage Alice seemed relaxed and confident as she spoke about the inclusion of some more masculine pieces – “because trousers are just so easy to wear, and you don’t always want to put on a dress” – as well as about her thinking behind enlisting friends including Sophie Dahl and a pregnant Jacquetta Wheeler to take to the catwalk for her. “Sophie just looks so beautiful and I asked and said, ‘Don’t answer, just think about it’ and so she did. And Jacquetta being pregnant, I just thought it was perfect. I wanted to have women of different ages, with personalities. That felt right.” The Temperley woman still loves a floaty dress, but if she wants to wear trousers – or even a silver sequinned culotte suit – she’s going to, and no one’s going to stop her.
THE first show season since Temperley London combined its mainline and ALICE offerings and things are looking strong. That was a good idea – and you could see the balance between the two working all the better for now working as one. It felt fresh, young, clean, tight, modern.
“It was great to focus solely on an amazing show collection with more daywear, core pieces and loads of very versatile separates,” explained Temperley pre-show, singling out again “versatile” and “sexy” as key buzzwords.
“I was inspired by colour and print from very naughty Japanese paintings, woodblock prints, surreal sea creatures and lots of mixing of layers and kimono references with our looks both for day and evening,” she went on. And all of this was entirely evident. Cropped trench jackets, breezy skirts worn over trousers but whose effect was only really felt wafting away as it did at the back, gingham and plaid, pink and black stripes, dense embroideries, stiff A-line silhouettes.
Slouchy-boxy tailoring was given the Temperley edge with lace accents and despite all of these references and layers, it never felt heavy.
“The Temperley girl is more relaxed with a very sexy attitude,” the designer pointed out.
The mood suits her well.
Click below to shop Spring/Summer 2015 Temperley London looks:
LIKE last season, Alice Temperley journeyed to Italy to find inspiration for her autumn/winter 2014 collection, but this time took references from its ceremonial dress and ecclesiastical heritage instead of its sun-drenched coast.
“It all stemmed from a trip to Como and seeing all the beautiful religious robes and garments,” Temperley told us after the show. “I took all the jacquards from that to elevate the collection.”
For autumn/winter 2014 we’re seeing the Temperley London woman by day.
Dresses, coats and bandeau dresses covered in decorative prints – reminiscent of tile work from the aisles of ancient cathedrals – and particularly lovely quilted cropped jackets and flirty skirts all looked like pieces from the wardrobe of a grown-up hippy strolling down Portobello Road sifting through the market’s treasures – the stricter pieces like the sheer blouses, double-breasted A-line wool coats and crew-neck patterned jumpers acting as her staples for smart-casual dates and freelance meetings in the West End.