Spring/Summer 2015 Tom Ford

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LEGS, legs, legs. Really, they go on for miles and miles at Tom Ford. Clad in giant sweeping flares, or stretched out under mini tunics with plunging necklines, peeping through sheer hold-ups and perched atop those stonking, platform clogs. Everything here pointed to long, lean legs.

There were hints of Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent here tonight – in that gritty, Modish Sixties vibe, in that matted, been-up-all-night spiky hair and nightclub-ready smoky make-up, but Slimane doesn’t own the decade, or that look. Ford was inspired by his own collection of vintage Carlo Molino photographs in addition to some of his own designs from the late Nineties. He was smart to weave in a few re-jigs of his greatest Gucci hits; a white long sleeved minidress with circular cut-outs at the hip for example recalled the white jersey gown from Gucci’s autumn/winter 1996 campaign.

The show rounded up with a series of knockout sheer black gowns decorated in sequinned harnesses or with satin bra cups and a scattering of chiffon applique petals. A pair of black leggings and dramatic cape combo – entirely encrusted in twinkling black sequins from head to toe – was the dark follow up to that white caped gown donned by Gwyneth Paltrow and lauded the world over; plenty here to whet the appetite of red carpet starlets.

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The (Massive) Week in Menswear | 19/01/2015

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This week brought a blizzard of menswear (literally, in the case of the Moschino runway). The fashion set decamped first to London for the men’s collections, and then to Florence for Pitti Uomo. (This weekend, they’re off to Milan for another round of shows.) In case you missed any of our coverage, here are some of the highlights from the week.

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Hood by Air | Photo: Courtesy of Hood by Air

Hood by Air Takes Florence by Storm 

On paper, Shayne Oliver’s streetwear-meets-high-fashion brand sounded like an odd fit amid Pitti’s crisp Italian tailoring, but as it turned out, HBA’s villa-set show bridged the gap between the different worlds. Featuring both HBA staples (bomber jackets, cheeky details like pants with faux underwear), as well as classics like neutral overcoats, the presentation melded innovation and tradition.

A street style look from Florence. | Photo: Tommy Ton

Pitti Uomo Street Style

Whenever the menswear crew moves, Tommy Ton is hot on their heels. This week the photographer headed to Florence, Italy, for Pitti Uomo, where he captured the most innovative outfits off the runway.

Manolo Blahnik for Men

The iconic shoe designer debuted his newest men’s footwear collection in London this week. The shoes were impressive enough on their own, but the elaborate setting—the expansive Sir John Soane’s Museum—made this presentation all the more epic.

Tom Ford | Photo: Courtesy of Tom Ford

Tom Ford’s ’60s Spotlight

Ford has left behind his no-Instagramming-during-presentations policy in favor of, well, a mini photo shoot. All the better to showcase his latest collection of sharply tailored suits, double-breasted houndstooth coats, and shearling jackets.

Three’s Company

We highlighted some of the best menswear innovators from Pitti, from the revered Venetian label Barena Venezia to an all-American favorite, Billy Reid.

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Hailey Baldwin walking at Moschino. | Photo: Marcus Tondo / Indigitalimages.com

Jourdan Dunn and Hailey Baldwin for Moschino

Social media lit up with chatter when the crowds spotted Jourdan Dunn and Hailey Baldwin on the men’s Moschino runway. Jeremy Scott dressed the ladies in fake fur boots and coats, silver metallics, and not much else to complement the menswear pieces. “They are in a snowy forest but on their way to the rave,” said creative director Scott.


Tom Ford For Gucci?

IT’S the headline that most fashion followers thought they would never read, and almost warrants another question mark or an exclamation mark at the very least, but the unthinkable has happened: Tom Ford is again being linked with Gucci following Frida Giannini’s hasty departure earlier this week.
The company’s creative helmer for a decade, from 1994 to 2004, Ford defined an era for Gucci, creating the brand that we know today. Taking a leading role within Kering, then called the Gucci Group, Ford also took creative charge at Yves Saint Laurent during his time with the conglomerate – and could do little wrong creatively or commercially during that time.

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Tom Ford takes a bow at his final Gucci show in 2004

The excitement that the Italian house generated among fashion fans under Ford was never replicated under his successor Giannini, who favoured dressing real women over Hollywood starlets – and Ford’s controversial advertising campaigns kept the brand in the headlines where the subsequent, more low-key media approach has favoured philanthropy over shock value. When the partnership between Ford and Kering owner Francois-Henri Pinault unravelled – as it did very publicly – Ford retreated from public life for several years, before establishing his eponymous label in 2006.

So how much of this speculation is wishful thinking on the part of fashion watchers – and what might stand in the way of such a return? Well the short answer is, much of it and a lot of things. Firstly, Ford’s hugely successful eponymous brand, said to be worth nearly a billion pounds, would likely not be compatible with the rigours of running Gucci. Secondly, Ford has been very vocal about the emotional and physical toll that the job took on him, as well as how pleased he was to have extricated himself from the label and taken control of a company the direction of which he governed autonomously. Thirdly, since leaving Gucci, Ford has admittedly switched the focus of his own life from business to family – marrying long-term partner Richard Buckley and welcoming a son, Alexander, who is still just two and presumably very much in need of his dad. Add to that the fact that a Ford insider, rather amused at the suggestion, asserted this morning that there was “no truth” to the rumours.

Thanks to Galliano, 2015 is already the year of the fashion comeback, but a Ford for Gucci return really would make all our sartorial dreams come true.

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Tom Ford following his spring/summer 2015 show in September 2014