Spring/Summer 2015 Viktor & Rolf

VIKTOR & ROLF got bitten by the sportswear bug for their spring/summer 2015 collection today, unfamiliar territory for the duo who have a penchant for performance wares. Well, these were performance wares of a different variety – less froth and drama, more streamlined scuba shorts and leggings, jogging bottoms and little vests.

But they came with a side of extravagance and the unexpected – voluminous, inflated, gathered and twisted floral tops that used the torso as a canvas to create hugely contrasting shapes to the sleek nature of what was below. Not exactly practical for a workout.

These tops were draped and pulled and fashioned, entwined and tucked and there came a continuation of the sports note by the use of mesh on some of them too.

Sportswear has found itself providing the fashion fuel for many a designer collection these past few seasons so their dabbling into it now couldn’t help but feel a little late.

Autumn/ Winter 2014-15 Viktor & Rolf

Autumn/ Winter 2014-15 Viktor & Rolf

 NOTORIOUS for their fashion complexities, Viktor & Rolf – Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren respectively – relaxed and went for something easier for their autumn/winter 2013-14 collection.

“It’s more real,” said the duo after the show – a short and sweet answer for, surprisingly, a short and sweet collection. Because rather than being given their usual elaborate theatrics, the pair gave us wearable, uncomplicated and youthful clothes.

“It’s slightly rebellious, slightly sophisticated,” they said. Of course they didn’t overhaul their signature ruffles and bows altogether – they still spilt out at necks to construct the shape of a shirt or a blouse beneath or twisted into a sleeve or hip accent. But they reined it in for less-is-more appeal and kept it modern in a tight monochrome palette. The opening looks, slick tailoring in black and little miniskirts and hip-slung belts, were positively minimal for this pair.

They then played with embroidery to “rip” jeans and jackets, tulle-edged slashes – the most elegant rips you’ve ever seen. This was a case in point for that mix of the rebellious with the sophisticated – as were bows rendered in leather on jackets and skater skirts.

Edgier and edited with more direct wardrobe appeal than we have seen from them before – even down to the low-heel patent pumps that came in red or black with each look – it was a refreshing, new and younger direction, but didn’t lose its Viktor & Rolfisms.

To shop more Viktor & Rolf visit: http://www.viktor-rolf.com/