VIKTOR & ROLF got bitten by the sportswear bug for their spring/summer 2015 collection today, unfamiliar territory for the duo who have a penchant for performance wares. Well, these were performance wares of a different variety – less froth and drama, more streamlined scuba shorts and leggings, jogging bottoms and little vests.
But they came with a side of extravagance and the unexpected – voluminous, inflated, gathered and twisted floral tops that used the torso as a canvas to create hugely contrasting shapes to the sleek nature of what was below. Not exactly practical for a workout.
These tops were draped and pulled and fashioned, entwined and tucked and there came a continuation of the sports note by the use of mesh on some of them too.
Sportswear has found itself providing the fashion fuel for many a designer collection these past few seasons so their dabbling into it now couldn’t help but feel a little late.
THE first show season since Temperley London combined its mainline and ALICE offerings and things are looking strong. That was a good idea – and you could see the balance between the two working all the better for now working as one. It felt fresh, young, clean, tight, modern.
“It was great to focus solely on an amazing show collection with more daywear, core pieces and loads of very versatile separates,” explained Temperley pre-show, singling out again “versatile” and “sexy” as key buzzwords.
“I was inspired by colour and print from very naughty Japanese paintings, woodblock prints, surreal sea creatures and lots of mixing of layers and kimono references with our looks both for day and evening,” she went on. And all of this was entirely evident. Cropped trench jackets, breezy skirts worn over trousers but whose effect was only really felt wafting away as it did at the back, gingham and plaid, pink and black stripes, dense embroideries, stiff A-line silhouettes.
Slouchy-boxy tailoring was given the Temperley edge with lace accents and despite all of these references and layers, it never felt heavy.
“The Temperley girl is more relaxed with a very sexy attitude,” the designer pointed out.
The mood suits her well.
HERE’S one for the shopping list: if you don’t buy anything else all spring – buy knitwear. Knitwear was woven in organic yarn – what else? – and crafted into slouchy asymmetric silhouettes while a series of romantic silk dresses jigsaw-ed together from clashing patterns and prints tapped into Stella’s soft side.
A faded plaid print on fluttering silk was wishy-washy in the line-up but those silk trench coats were winners, so too her drawstring parachute silk parkas, billowing behind.
It may sound like an odd observation but Stella McCartney makes clothes that are women-friendly. There is no crash diet to get on to before slipping into one of her baggy jumpsuits; nothing to consider when it comes to deciding what to throw on under one of her silk trench coats – any dress will do, or a favourite pair of jeans and a T-shirt. For that reason her clothes can be empowering. Nothing is too complicated, there’s nothing to get your head around.
Sometimes that can translate into a collection that flatlines: this offering wasn’t perhaps bursting at the seams with zingy new ideas but it didn’t have to. Stella knows her woman and what she wants to wear come summer: she wants to look pretty and a little bit cool, and she’ll find that here.